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Well if there is no danger of hitting water, then I'm all for flattening out the speed bumps. The port opening seems quite a bit smaller than the header flange, so there will be a decent amount of anti-reverb lip there anyway.

Here are my average Joe intake ports: Heads had 1.88/1.60 valve installed years ago, so trying to make the best of what I have. Seems like not a lot of focus on the exhaust side here, but just to be clear, can I take out the speed humps in the roof of the exhaust ports (sorry for the...

Now I'm sorry I asked, I'm from overseas and wanting to spend my money in America as I do often and hoping somebody can point me in the direction of the best deal. I'd imagine there are lots of US made parts on sale and even if they are not made in the US, somebody over there is still getting...

I need some engine parts, who has the best Black Friday sales for Mopar parts.

So I've been looking into gear ratio changes, nothing is going to be easy or cheap because the ratios I would want were never offered in a diff that is a direct fit for my car unless a rare 3.38 M3 diff falls out of a tree. That said, the following ring and pinion sets could be swapped into my...

3.7 to 4.1 gears will be the biggest bang for dollar investment if 1/4 mile times are a priority.

Looks like I'm shopping for a new diff centre then, it's currently an open diff, so some sort of LSD would also help, especially out of the low speed corners. Here is a bit of on track action if you are interested. Last time out, I managed to punch through tree rocker arms at the same time...

Thanks for the detailed post AJ, I will take a bit of time to digest everything, but I like that there is some science in what you are saying. FWIW, I have an Aussie made 4 speed with ratios 3.32, 2.00, 1.43, 1.00, which might make things marginally worse, fortunately 1st gear isn't needed on...

I have no restrictions with regard to what cam I can run, so either solid or hydraulic is fine. I'm seeing 3,000-3500 out of corners and currently runs out of puff by 6,000, limited by valvetrain capability. Fast corners would be 3rd gear, dropping to 2nd on slow corners and rarely gets out of...

Yes there is something weird with the listing for that Mopar cam, some other sites have it as 228/235 advertised duration: *P4452782 0.429"/0.444" Lift, 228/235 Adv. Duration *P4452757 0.410"/0.425" Lift, 248/256 Adv. Duration *P4452759 0.430"/0.450" Lift, 260/268 Adv. Duration *P4452761...

Lunati had issue with the low compression, refer below: Bit more lift and tighten up the duration to maybe build a bit more cylinder pressure. I guess the idea would be to close the intake earlier to help in this regard. I read somewhere the 340 cam is 210/220 @ 0.050" If I convert to...

It's track use only and I can potentially pull the heads and do some work on them if I have to. Thinking a bit of porting wouldn't hurt. The general idea is to keep it low budget and I know the low compression is a bit of an achilleas heal that will limit how much cam I can run.

Looking for a bit of advice/feedback on other people's experience. I have a track day car (circuit racing), it's actually a BMW E36 coupe, but fitted with a 318 Mopar engine. The engine was built maybe 30 years ago and is a pretty basic build of the day, stock replacement low comp pistons...

I like that a lot and I am an AMC man. There is a Frankenrambler section on The Amc Forum for stuff like this, I think it would be appreciated.

Instructions I found on the web say not to use the 5.0 lever with this valve body.

Oh the joys of laying on your back under the car with transmission fluid dripping on your face. At least it's done now, CRT reverse manual valve body, billet low/reverse servo and home made blocker rod in the accumulator. This better be worth at least a tenth or two, assuming it doesn't blow up...

I have something similar using a low first gear Aussie 4 speed (1st: 3.32:1; 2nd: 2.00:1; 3rd: 1.43:1; 4th: 1.00:1), 318 engine in a light weight car (3 series BMW), mostly used to road course track days, going from 3.45 in the rear to 3.15 made a huge difference in overall driveability, mostly...

One of the problems I have at the moment is that if I'm not careful I can overshoot 2nd and go straight from 1st to 3rd, reverse pattern should solve that with the factory shifter as it has a detent to go from 2nd to 1st, which will become the 2nd to 3rd shift.

I have a CRT reverse pattern valve body laying around and a low horsepower car with a relatively stock 727, was rebuilt with performance frictions and a bolt in sprag, but that's about it. Just wondering what sort of 1/4 mile improvement I might see with a valve body change? Currently running...

:rofl:

Yep, this will work:

Bass Pro is a favourite, I tell any Aussies heading stateside that it is one of the 'must see" destinations. We just don't have anything that comes close down under.

Having a dog that can fetch you a beer from the fridge is outstanding, the rest is overkill.

Dare I say my dentist is so hot I don't need Viagra.

You have to be 84 to pull something like that off.

So true, what more could you want?

If only it were true, find that teacher and marry her.

That's classic.

Thanks for the update on the oil pan, I was hoping it was something new, it will be way too deep for most car applications, back to the drawing board for me. I'm going to have to either modify one or build one from scratch for what I'm trying to achieve

So did anybody come back from SEMA with pictures of the oil pan? The picture of it in the Mopar catalogue is garbage and I can't reference the part number anywhere else to know if it is just a stock piece from some other model or something special.