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Yeah I agree, if you want to sell something at least clean it up so I can see what I'm looking at with more pics. I appreciate everyone's input....I'll keep thinking on it and decide if I want to go look at it(it's several hours away)

Right now I can get it for 4500, before it was parked years ago, it had a 8.75 rear from a cuda put in it, large bolt all around with front disc, low millage 360 from an RV and a 727 swapped in...and then never driven. It should run, but hasn't in years.

I need to go look at it to see what i'm dealing with for sure...this is mainly what i have to go off of and some brief chats with the seller.

I understand and I'm not asking you to appraise this car from a vague description and no pictures.... just approx value of a grade 1,2,3,4 vehicle, if similar in value to a 72 Dart, etc. I've found restored examples selling in the 15k-22k range. This one is unrestored, supposedly low miles...

Just wanted to get your feelings on what Scamps are selling for or worth. I somewhat have my eye on a '72 Scamp, mostly all rust free(so I'm told), v8, been sitting in storage for years....but really no idea what it's worth. I had a 69 Dart for over a decade, sold it, and was looking at...

I can only speak to the H-Beam rods I used...which did require clearancing on the bottom of two cylinders....no big deal though. The only other screwy thing I ran into was I had to have a machine shop align hone the mains out beyond normal tolerances because the combination of the stroker...

The Dart was picked up today by the new owner...thanks to all and the A Body forum. I had the car for 13.5yrs but I believe it was the right time to say goodbye and open up new projects and possibilities.

I've received a deposit...the buyer is going to be making a long haul to get the car, which should happen in about a week.

I've made a deal with a buyer, I'll mark the Thread as SOLD once the transfer is complete. Thanks!

It's a 360 block bored .040 over. With the stroker crank making it a 410CI. I have paper work for the parts I have purchased, etc, no build sheet. It's an original 340 4-Speed car. Rear quarters were replaced with the restoration. Very straight car, no waves in the body panels. It's the Factory...

If I don't find any takers as is, yes.

It's the Factory R4 Paint Code, which is Charger Red/Bright Red, has an orange tint under florescent lighting.

Currently Asking $25k OBO, In Lincoln, Nebraska. 1969 Dodge Dart Swinger 340, Original 4 Speed car, restored in about 2001/2002. Currently has a 410CI Stroker Smallblock and a P1SC Procharger, running about 10 psi boost w/ water injection. Complete forged bottom end, 8.3:1 CR, CNC ported(By...

If you have E-85 relatively close I guess that's an advantage, though you're somewhat locked into that fuel choice. Because the energy density of that fuel is so much less than a non-blended fuel you're going to be running through much more of it. So if your looking for a cost savings not sure...

Is this going in a street driven vehicle? Pump Gas? I'm running 10psi on 8.3:1 pistons and runs great on pump gas...I have water/methanol injection on it to lower the intake air temp once the boost gets past about 5psi. There's a million and one considerations to think about..but the bottom...

Rotational Mass is a big one....Wheels, tires, axles, drive shaft, tranny, tq converter/flywheel when spinning combined have a huge amount of inertial kinetic energy all of which resists a change in speed either accelerating or decelerating. To increase the rotational speed of all of these...

Set the piston stop so it hits some about before TDC say 20 Degrees make a mark on the harmonic balancer at the 0 Timing point on your degree indicator. Back the engine around the other way till you the other side of TDC, make another mark...right in between them should be exactly TDC. I've...

Depending on the Cams specs..overlap etc. the psi readings might not be exactly what you think they should be based on the compression of the engine. They do seem a bit on the low side though. Usually I'd say if all cylinders are within 10% of each other and it runs good, don't worry about...

Hmm well what do you want to know? Mopar came out with these new 440CI small block stroker combinations. Comes with a New 340 Siamese Block with 4-Bolt Mains. Bore: 4.180" Stroke: 4.00" I know of one guy thats building up one for a Procharged application... but haven't read about anyone else...

I'm using a 72 360 block, if your going to be pushing 10+psi I'd say definatly get a set of H-Beam Rods. Even with a mild build your going to be looking at 500-600+ flywheel hp. If you go with Cometic Head Gaskets they recommend a 50 RA or finer surface on the block/head mating plane. I'm using...

I had Diamond (http://www.diamondracing.net/) Custom make the Pistons for me as a Low Compression Stroker piston is definitely not your normal off the shelf part. 8.3:1 is about as low as I could go because of the space constraints on wrist Pin height with the extra stroke. If the car was...

I have a P1SC on my 410" stroker. Originally it was a 360 with about 9.2:1 hypereutectic pistons..non intercooled, no water injection, and running around 10lbs of boost I blew a head gasket within two months. I rebuilt the engine with Quench Dome 8.3:1 CR forged stroker pistons Mopar Forged...

As with KoryLiss I was having clearance issues with the Center-Link to Tie Rod end joint hitting a header tube. I took a piece of 1/4" and 1/8" steel and cut a slit down the center part way and placed it underneath the motor mount on the pass side and put about 1/4" on the drivers side. I...

I used a Mopar Forged crank and Eagle H-Beam Rods. I had to clearance about a 1/4" at the bottom of the cylinder. See Pics Below...

I have a ProCharged 410, but they are different enough animals I probably wouldn't be much help. This guy probably knows something about screw type superchargers on small blocks though....

This is a pic of my 69 Dart 360 with Air-Gap intake and Edelbrock Carb. I used a shorter filter than before and went with a lid filter as well to make up for it. I had to raise my engine up almost 1/2" to make the TTI headers clear everything which constrained things a bit more then they might...

Check the Accelerator pump for proper operation..might need to adjust that. Not sure what carb you have(Model...Mechanical or Vacuum Secondaries)....other things to check.... Metering Rod Size, Metering Rod Spring Tension, and Jetting.

I've seen a couple of chassis dyno's on claimed "stock" 426's and they were in the 380 rwhp range...the rated 425 might be a bit low...maybe more like 450-460 but probably not much more than that. The factory rated 425HP was at 5000RPM and if taken higher the HP did continue to climb. Right...

I think a 5.7L in an A body would make a pretty sweet reliable Touring vehicle. Lets see 5.7L vs 440CI Using a 1-10 Scale --------------5.7L-------440CI RWHP--------300+(7)-----300+(7) MPG ----------25 (10)-----13(4) Driveability------10-----------5 Cost for...