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Well, here's the latest discovery.. As mentioned, the new electric feed-pumps made a terrible noise to the point where it sounded like the car was borken or something... With the negine idling, the old mechanical pump disconnected but running, it made a very pronounced "wuhu-wuhu-wuhu"...

I decided to go for an electric feed-pump, or rather, two feed-pomps in parallel to ensure that I got a feed rate that was higher than that of the High-pressure pump. The Local auto-warehouse had some units that wasn't too expensive. After installation and some priming to get the iar out of...

Hmmm, well, if the fuel enters low or high.. it still enters... Allso, read various articles where some people state that "the fuel gradually heats up" due to the continous recirculation through the engine bay, thus eventually causing boiling and vapour locks.. put my hand on the fuel tank...

Good point, conincident events may not allways be related! :) Well, I re-did the original vapour return line with 8mm ID tubing hooked it up to one of the fuel tank "vapour condenser" inlets, and hooked it up to the regulator bleed-off with a piece of flexible fuel line. At idle before driving...

Iagree, it sounds like vapor lock.. the only doubt I have about that, is that this didn't appear on the first drives I did after I modified to the return line system.. and the drive i had today was substantially shorter, i.e. it seems like something happened during the previous drive when this...

Guys, I have a frustrating problem with my fuel system.. and before I start ripping stuff apart and/ or throwing new parts at it, I would be gratefull for some advice... Here's the deal, I have a megasquirt EFI system fed from a high pressure pump, which is in turn fed from a the mechanical...

Jones, Thats a VERY good point! Had forgot about that entirely!

First of all, thanks for all further advice! Dodgetboy, were you spot on or what! And for Prine, I did put in a roller chain only a year after I got the car, the design of the original drive system with that nylon (!) pulley plain scared me the first time i had the cover off, no way I was...

No spare pump knocking about I'm afraid, but I'd be abit surprised if it wasn't the pump! And no such thing as local auto-store with inexpensive parts foir american classic cars in Norway, at least not where I live! :) Ebay, my friend.. And even on the off chance that it's not the pump...

As the alternator is brand new, It has to be the water-pump, I can't see it being anything else. And waterpumps do fail, as my brother found out on his way to the Roskilde festival in Denmark, halfway down Sweden in a '73 Chevelle Malibu full of buddies and camping gear! :) Good thing I allowed...

Slacked the alternator and lifted the fan-belt out of the pulleys. Started engine, no clacking. Put belt back on, started engine; Clacking. Seems like i'll be ordering up a nwe water-pump in a big hurry! I'm really not comfortable about what's causing that noise inside the water-pump!!

Thanks for some great input and comments here guys! A water ur fuel-pump issue has crossed my mind... but again, I've never heard what that sounds like. The fuel pump is perhaps not my top suspect as I replaced it when I got the car some 7-8 years ago. But for all I know, the water-pump...

Good news! A: Since someone knows what a rod failure sounds like. (I don't!) B: That a rod failure sound dosen't go away! :) During the first clip, If I had been able to be two places at one time, I could have given it some throttle, just taking it a bit above idle, you would then have...

73AbodEE, Yes, it sounds rather awfull, if that noise had been persistent, I would'nt had dared start the engine any more! But the next clip I posted shows the engine just a minute or two later. What to make of this?

OK, that worked.. Now, in this clip, the engine has been idling for a minute or two (or three) and has settled down to a more stable pace. The clacking now Hardly appears. 302 Found Sounds like it is making a terrible din, but again, down to the audio of the camera. In real life this sounds...

just had to create a youtube account first.. Now this is the first clip, starting the engine. You can se the oil pressure jumping straight up after the engine fires on the second attempt.(normal) The engine is cold, and the clanking is now quite pronounced. It sounds quite bad on the...

OK, just been outside and shot a few movie-clips. Figured it was best to do this wile the thread was stil warm! Oh, and thanks for all the replies so far! :) Now, just got to figure out how to upload these clips... bear with me!

Not easy do describe a sound in a meaningfull way, thats for sure.. Well, it doesn't sound like any valvetrain issue, no clicking or ticking as you get before oil-pressure builds and the hydraulic lifters fill up. It is certainly not something that has happened over night, but I can't...

When I start my engine, it makes an occasional "Klakk-klakk" noise. it is not regular, it is the sort of noise you would expect if a part of the engine was hitting something from low RPM shuddering/ vibration. With a little bit rev and when the engine is warm, this seams to disappear. There...

Moderator, please delete, accidental double posting!

Well, I don't suspect the oil pump as I dropped in a brand new one some years ago, which by the way didn't improve matters much, so the old pump was probably quite OK. (Had the oil pan off and a new pump wasn't that expensive, so I could just as well do it) I wouldn't ber surprised if the...

That sounds like the vent line from the tank to the charcoal cannister. Not all cars have these cannisters, so then you just have a dead end pipe in the engine compartment. I tried to use this line in my car as a fuel return line for EFI. Didn't work, the line was completely caked with rust...

Thanks for the reply guys! I thought that perhaps some filters had less pressure drop across them than others, perhaps allowing me to pick up 1 or 2 psi extra. Guess I'll be allright with the occasional blink of the oil lamp then...

Hi! I have a mildly tuned 318 in my car, an old one which has probably never been rebuildt. Its probably well worn, something I suspect from how the oil pressure behaves. I run 20-50 oil, and when starting from cold, the oil pressure is great with arround 25 psi on idle and up to 70...

True, I'm ver7y happy with my firm-feel box! But then again, that's with the stock 318 in place! :) But I'm still convinced it's possible to fab up a manifold come the day when a Hemi goes in..

Interresting topic... After having done a full front end re-build, stiffer torsion bars, and Bilstein shocks, The next step is to considera rear-end sway-bar. My '71 swinger GT has the factory front sway bar. What aftermarket rear sway-bar will match?

Well, everything is relative.. and I did find that the ols cannister vent line to the engine compartment was for all purpose and intent blocked by internal corrosion. (no kidding!) So had my fioller cap not been vented, I would probably have sucked the petrol tank flat a good while ago...

Yes, there are many benefits of using synthetic oil. There is the base oil and the additive packages like viscosity modifiers, detergents, anti-foaming agents, corrosion inhibitors, friction modifiers etc.. Crude oil is a mix of of hydrocarbons ranging from the lightest fractions like...

You're welcome! Trust me, you've got something to look forward to! :) PS, make sure you have a fresh bottle of servo-fluid handy! ;-)

OwdKasd, You're too right, it shouldn't be a problem at all! All thing's considered, the radiator cap relief valve pops open at arround 0,4-0,6 Bar, which isn't moch of an over-pressure compared to.. well anything! What sort of housings have you done up? Any of those cheapo pot-metal...