Search results for query: *

NO, I'm not a 98 lb. pipsqueak. But I'm getting old and I really love power steering.

So, what has to be done to put a rack in the front? I would think that the stock K member won't work. Iv'e heard that the left and right spindles can be swapped, moving the arms to the front.

I currently have a power steering box and all the info that I've gathered says that the power box has to go bye bye. I can go with a manual box as long as I don't have to parallel park it.

I'm researching this to see if it is practical at all. I could really use the room that the steering box takes up. I am planning to install a Gen 3 Hemi and things get extremely tight in that area.

Dose anybody have knowledge of what it takes to install a rack in a 68 Dart?

I just bought a 2012 5.7 with a 6 speed automatic out of a Ram 1500 2WD with all of the wiring, computer, complete with alt, AC compressor and power steering pump, for $3500. Last year the same yard wanted $4000 for the same set up in Portland Oregon. Has 84000 miles on it. It would seem that...

What automatic transmission were you going to use? Also, If you want to save a ton of money on a rear end, check out the 8.8 ford conversion. I did this for a fraction of the cost of a 8 3/4.

Just some things I've learned so far when installing this hemi in a Dart. If the car had a /6, the first things are to increase the strength of the body. Frame connectors and torque boxes are extremely good upgrades. Replace the rear end with a 8 3/4 at minimum. The torque of the Hemi will blow...

The fitness of the mechanics is not the most worrisome part of this project. I'm trying to figure out the wiring and controls of this motor and transmission combo. I don't start a project until I can see a path to completion. I would hate to get boxed in and have no way out.

I have looked thru this thread because I have wanted to put a 5.7 with a 6 speed automatic transmission into my 68 Dart. I found the 2012 combo at a swap meet. I had hoped that this had been done enough times already that there would be easy to find info to complete this. Apparently that's not...

There is no "kit" to extract this bolt. The only procedure I have heard of is to drill it, and still have to break it by driving the center pin with a hamer and a drift to shear the pin. The carrier housing may not servive this.

I did this swap from a 7.25 to a 98 Explorer 8.8, in my 68 Dart. The 8.8 has 3.73 gears and the 7.25 had 3.23s. My speedometer was accurate at 60 mph before the swap. Now, in order to go 60, by gps the cars speedometer reads 84mph. I'm running 24 1/2"dia tires so the rpms are well above 3000...

You need to messure the grommet and compare to the hole your tring to stuff it into. You may have the wrong one. A vernier caliper is a good tool for this and they are not expensive.

Wow, I didn't know 4x disc brakes were even an option in the 70s. I've never seen a mopar in those years with that option. Anyway, I've serviced several 4 wheel dics brake cares over the years and the rear calipers always have smaller diameter pistons than the front. When you get to the...

The calipers for the front brakes have a much greater clamping pressure than rear calipers do at any given fluid pressure. So no, they won't work for the rear. The rotors are usually different also.

Suggestion for bleeding the calipers: The bleeder port must be the highest part when bleeding out the air. If you have to unbolt the caliper and put a piece of wood between the pads to accomplish this then do it. It's the only way to get the air out.

Anyone who says it's ok to pull any battery cable off while the motor is running is full of ****. That's a very stupid thing to do. Along with the previous mentioned bad stuff, the battery, when being charged even a small amount will produce hydrogen gas. The spark produced when pulling off a...

The reason people are saying the carb is to big for your 318 is because the teen can only pump 460 CFM @ 5000 RPM, thru it if there were no restrictions at all. In reality it only gets about 400 CFM thru it @ 5000 RPM. The only way to get more CFM is to use a turbo charger or a blower. Using a...

I'm also installing an 8.8 in my 68 Dart. The price was $200 plus $37.50 for a short axle. It looks really good inside, the bearings and gears check out good. I'm just going to replace the axle seals and run it. On this type of c_clip axle replacing a axle bearing requires a new axle because it...

If you have to rebuild it maybe $190 wasn't such a good deal after all. The main reason to use this rear is to save $$. If your willing and able to spend that much you may as well use the Mopar 8 3/4 and keep your car pure.

I wouldn't recommend that you use stainless steel at all. Here's the problem, stainless steel is a much more noble metal than the mild steel of the fender. This will cause the metal of the fender to corrode at an ecelerated rate. These two dissimilar metals can be welded together and they are in...

Thanks for the info. The Dart has power steering now it's just the typical over power of the 60's with no feel at all. The Cordoba had a much better feel to the steering. Maybe it was just because of the weight. What is a good place to buy the BBJ UCA. Some of the places say theirs have a 3deg...

The only reason I was considering it is because I have the thing. I don't have any of the right parts. The spindles from the Cordoba aren't on the compatible list. This Dart drives poorly and the brakes are even worse. I plan to put a 360 in it but not until I can steer it and stop it.

I'm concidering putting the complete suspension system from a 75 Cordoba in my 68 Dart. I've never heard of anybody doing this, but I'm sure it has been. I will have to narrow the K about 2 ". And build mounting plates on the sub frame. When complete, if everything works out it should drive...

Those spool mount conversions may be causing your engine to be to close to the drivers side causing clearance problems. Measure from the center of crank shaft in front to both sides. It should be about 1 1/2" closer to the right side than the drivers side. If you have to, for clearance issues...

Check out this sight and you will a lot more about 8 3/4s http://www.mymopar.com/Mopar8_75RearEndGuide.htmhttp://www.mymopar.com/Mopar8_75RearEndGuide.htm

The 1957 to 1964 8 3/4 rear ends are ok to use but the axles and pumpkin are not interchangable with the1965 and up 8 3/4s.

Well now i'm going to have to wait until the wife calms down to spend more money on this 360. I am curently in deep dodo for spending over a grand in the last few weeks. I don't know what happened to her sence of humor.

Thanks for all the input. I'm going to stay with the 1.88s and spend that $300 or so bucks somewhere else.

I'm building a 360 to go in my 68 dart. This will be a street machine. I have no intrest in racing it. Stock bore and stroke, a mild Comp cam kit summit #k20-212-2, performer RPM intake and J heads, Long tube Heddman headers and 2.5" duel exhaust. The heads are going to the machine shop soon...