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So my mistake guys. This engine is not sleeved. The cylinders were all so clean even 3 years after they were bored, it just looked sleeved. I just was not paying very close attention. It is simply bored. Head passed pressure test at a performance machine shop locally. I really do not think...

I am dropping the head off at a local machine shop tomorrow morning to have them pressure test it.

It was pressure tested on the bench, not run tested. They never even installed a water pump. They have a machine that will turn the crank and read cylinder pressures etc. There definitely was no liquid anywhere in this block except assembly lube until I dropped it in.

Every cylinder is sleeved, unless I am losing my mind. Unless later blocks came sleeved from the factory - which could be. I do not claim to know all the different engines Mopar made well. It does look to me like the head gasket was barely compressed.

A pressure test is where I should have started. But the leak was enough that I expected to find something obvious, and just started disassembling to find it. And found nothing. Good news is with a new sleeved cylinder, I can pretty much rule out the block. Think I am going to have the head...

The head is off, and there is nothing obvious. I thought the same thing. Was really expecting a visible problem with head gasket or something like that.

This engine is sleeved. I was thinking block at first as well, but these are new sleeves.

So, here is a question. This is a newer LA block - early 80s. The head bolt holes are not blind. 9 of the 10 actually go into the water jacket. Should there be sealer on these bolts?

I was really thinking that could be, but these cylinders are sleeved, and look great.

Reassembling far enough to do a leak down test is probably the best next step if I cannot visibly find anything. Intake was well sealed, and coolant was definitely not coming from intake side. Intake runner was bone dry.

Trying to help my sister get her 67 Barracuda back on the road. She bought a crate 318 during COVID. I finally got the opportunity to put it in the car for her over the winter. Got all the way to filling fluids, priming oil, and getting ready to install the intermediate shaft and distributor...

My car is a 67. The only way I would install a 273 is if it was a matching year. Thanks anyway. I bought a complete LA 318 crate engine for the same price as an Eggers parts kit for the 273.

Yes, my goal is not to touch the steering system. I plan to move the engine and headers around them. Since it will be on a hoist with room to work above and below, that should be doable. If I can't do that, then they don't fit. I am hoping to have the new mini starter installed before hand...

Thanks. This is a new engine install and I will be using new engine mounts - original biscuit style. I will be installing the new headers as the engine is lowered into the bay. I am fine with having to dimple tube 7 if need be, just hoping not to have to do much more than that.

67Cuda360 Thanks for posting this question and your experiences. I am getting ready to purchase headers for a 67 Barracuda convertible with a 318. I was thinking about using Doug's 453s - seems like a great balance between cost and quality / fitment. My 67 is stock as far as the K frame...

Thanks for the clarification. I did not go into great detail, and my explanation was far from perfect, but the core concepts are correct. The primary point I was making in that initial response was, adding carb size to allow more air flow will not effectively compensate for lack of oxygen at...

I never claimed any expertise. Yes, there are the rare cases of naturally aspirated engines which exceed 100% volumetric efficiencies. They do so because of internal inertia and kenetic energy creating a vacuum. So yes, I oversimplified my example. But putting a carb on a street engine...

Antoine Magnan was a zooloigist, not a physicist. That's like taking carb advice from . . .

Reply to post 66. Unverifiable claims are not facts.

This myth people keep quoting about how bees shouldn't be able to fly is scientifically incorrect — here's why

When? Who? Show me a source for a physicist that said bees cannot fly. I call BS!

Gravity has never been disproven. None of the primary laws of physics ever have been. There is an entire profession of engineers who would disagree adamantly as to whether the laws of physics can simply be ignored while we wait for new evidence. Seriously. But if I need some advice on eggs...

I get it. But at the end of the day you cannot defy the laws of physics, because physics does not care if you agree. If you simply ignore science, you will get to learn the hard way. I am not a fan of wasting money because I guessed. I am not saying that cfm calculators are perfect. If...

I understand what you are saying about needing more air to produce the same power. Problem is, the only way to pull in more air is more displacement. There is nothing I can do to make a 318 engine pull in more than 318 cubic inches of air per combustion cycle. Obviously changes to cams and...

Thanks! I will definitely keep that in mind.

It's actually about 86%, but close enough. Your point is very valid and I am leaning towards a smaller carb.

Thanks. Great advice. I am going to stay small. I am starting to lean towards 500 cfm.

Not sure that writeup is factually accurate. I called Edelbrock. 1405 and 1406 have extremely minor differences. Primary and secondary venturies are identical as well as boosters. Primary jets are 0.98 and 1.00 - a 2% difference in flow area. Secondary jets are identical. Metering rod is...

The 1405 is manual choke and the 1406 is electric choke. Beyond that they are essentially the same carb. I cannot use a manual choke carb.

Just to clarify, performance is still important. But we are looking for midrange power and consistent throttle response. We just do not care about maximizing peak horsepower at WOT above 5K rpm. And I have seen from others that it is easy to kill bottom performance end with too big of a carb.