Desperately need experienced opinions on Engine Identification

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Id pass. 273 blocks are cheap. EGGE 4bbl pistons are available. build a 67 with those pistons and a $100 273/4 intake found here often and you got your self a 4bbl 273. choose a modern cam and a distributor of choose and your set. Heads were the same. I'd build a 318 with the 273 top end. More displacement, much more torque, same HP, same look. I spun a rod bearing on a 273/4 went cheap and bought a $100 67 318 short block and moved everything I could off the old 273/4. Damn thing was way quicker than the 273/4.
 
pishta said:
Id pass. 273 blocks are cheap. EGGE 4bbl pistons are available. build a 67 with those pistons and a $100 273/4 intake found here often and you got your self a 4bbl 273. choose a modern cam and a distributor of choose and your set. Heads were the same. I'd build a 318 with the 273 top end. More displacement, much more torque, same HP, same look. I spun a rod bearing on a 273/4 went cheap and bought a $100 67 318 short block and moved everything I could off the old 273/4. Damn thing was way quicker than the 273/4.
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I have considered those types of options. And they are not off the table. What you say makes a lot of sense. The only reason I considered the 273 purchase mentioned before was it was advertised as a complete matching 1967 Cuda driveline - from air cleaner to transmission tail. That is an uncommon find. As soon as it broke down to be something else, the value dropped to a few hundred in my eyes - not even worth the effort to go get it.

An additional challenge is, at the time when I was negotiating this purchase, we did not even have a buildable block - although that may have changed since then. The 318 that is in the car right now was a junkyard motor bought in 1979 to replace the 273 - which her boyfriend had run out of oil. So this was a used engine 40 years ago. It is beyond tired now. It actually will start and run, but it has numerous bolt holes that are stripped and base issues that make me want to start with something in better condition. I can buy a nice 318 long block assembly far cheaper than I can build anything. The EGGE rebuilt kit is $1974 just for the parts. I can buy a moderately built long block 318 for $1750 with no core charge. But again, this is not my car and the sentimental factor is huge.

I really do appreciate the advice. Things will come together. My biggest concern is that whatever I do is done right. People have been putting this car back together the cheapest possible way for two decades and that's why it is not driveable. I refuse to do that. Any engine I drop in there better be ready to run for 150K miles.
 
thecatsfan said:
I have considered those types of options. And they are not off the table. What you say makes a lot of sense. The only reason I considered the 273 purchase mentioned before was it was advertised as a complete matching 1967 Cuda driveline - from air cleaner to transmission tail. That is an uncommon find. As soon as it broke down to be something else, the value dropped to a few hundred in my eyes - not even worth the effort to go get it.

An additional challenge is, at the time when I was negotiating this purchase, we did not even have a buildable block - although that may have changed since then. The 318 that is in the car right now was a junkyard motor bought in 1979 to replace the 273 - which her boyfriend had run out of oil. So this was a used engine 40 years ago. It is beyond tired now. It actually will start and run, but it has numerous bolt holes that are stripped and base issues that make me want to start with something in better condition. I can buy a nice 318 long block assembly far cheaper than I can build anything. The EGGE rebuilt kit is $1974 just for the parts. I can buy a moderately built long block 318 for $1750 with no core charge. But again, this is not my car and the sentimental factor is huge.

I really do appreciate the advice. Things will come together. My biggest concern is that whatever I do is done right. People have been putting this car back together the cheapest possible way for two decades and that's why it is not driveable. I refuse to do that. Any engine I drop in there better be ready to run for 150K miles.
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Did you ever get that car running I have 2 ) 273 engines 65 barracuda all new rebuild putting together bored 30 over And one 65 dart Was running When wrecked 65000 miles Both have 904 transition trunnion joint
 
SnowDrifter said:
Did you ever get that car running I have 2 ) 273 engines 65 barracuda all new rebuild putting together bored 30 over And one 65 dart Was running When wrecked 65000 miles Both have 904 transition trunnion joint
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My car is a 67. The only way I would install a 273 is if it was a matching year. Thanks anyway. I bought a complete LA 318 crate engine for the same price as an Eggers parts kit for the 273.
 
thecatsfan said:
My car is a 67. The only way I would install a 273 is if it was a matching year. Thanks anyway. I bought a complete LA 318 crate engine for the same price as an Eggers parts kit for the 273.
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65 barracuda all original except intake and a bigger Cam little 13 in wheels

20200717_165325.jpg
 
put in a 318 or 360 , nobody will ever know the difference if you put the commando valve covers on . if it's not a show car does it really mater ? as long as she can drive and enjoy it that is all that's important
 
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