Search results for query: *

The body's fiberglass so they're kind of a hassle to get rid of.

That rusty spot on the cross bar is kind of unexpected

It seemed obvious to me from the start the whole clip goes under the stud. But then I don't know how many times it ended up with only one side under while I was trying to install it. So I knew that was too loose to work. I thought that odd shape on the clip it might be used for clipping it in...

I tried it on my z-bar on the bench and noticed there is more room to fit the clip there than there is where I'm working under the dash, and it clipped right in. I'm thinking about thinning the ends of that linkage rod to help with that. Thanks,

Is there a trick to installing these clips? I can't get anywhere with them by trying to squeeze and slide them onto the pedal/zbar studs. The shape of the slot makes me think there's a trick to it. Thanks.

Dave I noticed the photo you posted earlier was turned like that too. I went with the direction it was turned in the FSM. It's odd most of them are that way because the contour in the inner fender aligns with it when it's turned the other way.

FWIW I had to patch the inner fender because there were extra holes with bonus cracks between them. I didn't cut anything out, just plug welded a piece over top of it to go from good metal to good metal. I zapped the cracks between those holes a few times before covering them up. The...

One pickle I got caught in was needing to pick up the front end after the K-frame was bolted in but before I had the engine off the cart. The cart was in the way of using a floor jack so I lifted the car up engine and all like this - pucker time but it held no problem to raise it up just enough...

I've got one laying around unused and old enough it doesn't have the EGR stuff on it. Seems like there I saw an online magazine article where one of the RoadKill guys did a shoot out with that model in it, but might have gone down the memory hole.

There's barely enough sidewall to fit the RWL. :poke:

i thought of this thread while reading the instructions for my McLeod setup a week after I installed it without reading them first. Anyway, McLeod calls for 1/4" between the throwout bearing and the pressure plate fingers. So comparatively 0.145 isn't really a big gap.

I followed your lead and lifted a small block/4-speed on the k-frame into my Duster using a cherry picker and juggling jackstands. I put the car on a pair of tall jackstands before I dropped the k-frame out to begin with (no engine, had elephant ears), hooked on to the k-frame and dropped it to...

Go ahead with one of those low lift low capacity HF aluminum jobs, then go right back and get one of these when you can't get the work done with the little guy. 3 Ton Long-Reach Low-Profile Professional Floor Jack with RAPID PUMP, Blue Man am I ever glad I bought mine when that model first...

I've got more flattening out to do on the inner fender well before welding it but the studs line up now. I appreciate everyone's help. :thumbsup:

Whoever did it tried to weld the one extra hole to the inner fender but all they accomplished was making a flat side on the hole. Not even a little bit of penetration. I took the bolt out and it fell right off.

Yes it's a bolt. So, i's in the wrong place. Now to get it removed and in the right place. Thanks everybody!

I seem to have an alignment problem here That is a 734 10-1/2" bellhousing and a Brewer's BSB734 ball stud bracket, which should work on this 71 Duster. The engine is installed and the trans mount is installed, so I'm pretty sure those are where they should be. The engine mount brackets and...

I had forgotten about the ratchet strap. :thumbsup: The problem I keep running into is I have to make adjustments to install things, and then adjust them again for the next thing. :BangHead: :) My next stop is the transmission forum, because when I screwed the new pivot ball stud iat the...

The fun never stops. With the spacer under the motor mount, the header's in the way of the torsion bar. Without the spacer, the header lays right against the torsion bar (one tube on each side), but the bar goes in the socket like it should, so it's a matter of "barely touching". I think I'm...

You saved a ton of money by leaving the body as is. My A12 has been in the shop being un-cut-up for racing and it's taking forever but is finally about ready for the bodywork to begin. Like you, I refuse to total up how much money I've got in it so far. That doesn't help anyone's attitude :D

I didn't wait - put a 2' level across the valve covers and a 4' level across the inner fenders - one is as level as the other one so I'm calling it good to go.

FWIW up up and away. Followed Andy F's lead and lifted the k-frame/engine/trans assembly up using my cherry picker. I had to spend one evening getting the transmission aligned with the mount, so I ended up in a battle to loosen then retighten all the motor mount bolts. It's exactly that kind...

I'll say 11.70 since that is what my A12 was running with an experienced driver and an automatic. The first pass ought to be in the 13s though. Work up to it.

Then you definitely need a helmet. Bang your head on that once and ... and you should be wary of that even when you're just cruising around :D

I forget, does the car still have a roll bar in it?

Sitting here listening to Robert Quine wishing I would've started playing at 15 instead of 55. Keep your eye on the guy they brought in from the accounting department

No wasted time. :thumbsup:

Imagine accidentally banging one into a car. That's why we didn't use them @ Southside Gulf.

I bought rockers that came with the factory pushrods and if this engine is anything like mine was, there is no alternative to replacing the pushrods; they were way too long. Mine probably turned out shorter than most would like (me too), but that was nearly 1/2 inch difference (7.080 vs 7.5)...

I just ordered a Federal bracket kit and will go back to using the pump and hose that came from the 400 that used to be in the car. I will have a self-rebuilt Saginaw pump, brackets, pressure hose, and a cooler listed before too long.