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See above posts Do you have any tips on looking through the rest of the wiring on the dash side? I checked continuity across several points at the connector on the dash side and got beeps. I'm not sure if they're supposed to be electrically touching. Is it just getting under there with the...

Ah found some of what I was looking for. Two red wires are for the key in buzzer which doesn't work and the small black wire would go to the gear shift lever. Manual has that listed as an orange wire. Car is a stick so don't have that either. lol

Ok so update time! Finally got the parts in and smoke cleared enough to work on the car. Ignition switch is completely toast. Came apart as soon as i took it out of the column. Turn signal switch had some broken pieces on it so Im glad I got the replacement for that too. On the new ignition...

I don't mind checking everything that was suggested. Theres more than a single problem with the wiring in the car, but I do think this issue is the ignition switch. It's very consistent about starting a fire so should be easy to check once my steering wheel puller gets here. Good bit of fried...

Yeah they don't even come close to each other in the engine bay. The connector for the A1B is super hashed though. Pretty melted and I can tell its been spliced in. Don't even see the fusible link. Just looks like wire. Fire is getting pretty close so Ill have to check it out later.

Short is in the wiring. No continuity across the solenoid with the wires off. Testing the wires there is a short between A1B (red wire that goes to firewall connector) and S5(black/brown wire from starter). No continuity between either wire and H2 (ignition2) wire.

Yeah the ground was just really dirty. Cleaned it up and it shows less than 1ohm. Ill take the wires off and check them.

Ok so rechecked. There's definitely only a few ohms resistance between B and S, infinite between B and G. Infinite between B and I. 25ohms from S to I. I think I tested the first time by touching the connector on G and not the post.

Here's a photo for reference. 20 Ohms was from the ground terminal to the ring terminal under the bolt. The green wire from the clutch was broken and frayed when I got the car so I grounded that cable out on the firewall. The little red wire was on there when I got it. No neutral safety switch...

I checked resistance at the solenoid. Ground was kinda trash so cleaned it up. It was showing about 20 ohms. B and S were in the MOhms, Between the terminals (B to all) was 5 Ohms. Is that normal? My state is kind of on fire right now so progress is slow and my car is covered in ash.

I jumped it from terminal B to S from what I can see from the chassis manual. The connectors at the base of the column don't look burned or melted. I'm kind of sketched out to test with it in start because its burning stuff up, and its within a few seconds. Ill be doing the visual first...

It was 4:20 when I got home with the tow. I'm about 80 percent positive it's the switch. Thinking back to this morning the first time I turned it off it kind of stuttered like it still wanted to run. Hadn't done that before and kind of makes sense if some stuff was starting to get crossed. I...

In all seriousness that is very helpful thank you.

Naaa you just leave that nut on a little bit and yank on it

I'm laughing on the outside and crying on the inside

Yep that's the seat belt relay. Should it click? Never really heard it but the engine is usually cranking when I turn the key lol. Verified the wiring colors. I have the manuals, they're pretty great. Was just in the parking lot when I posted them and didn't have access to them. The hazard...

Ok ill see if I can rig something like that up. Going to go ahead and order a new ignition switch. Is it a rough job?

Think i smoked my ignition switch today. 72 Duster 318 3-speed. Car wouldn't start (no crank but brake light on for parking brake) checked battery voltage and it was at 12.8. Arc'd across solenoid and turned over. After the first time it cranked right up with the key and I went to lunch...

It is a CA car. Motor also has the exhaust crossover tube thing taking up a ton of space on the driver side.

That might be it. The brackets are mounted differently and the distributor wasn't ever hooked to it. Seemed like a hack job though. Ill check that out in the manual. Thank you!

Sorry, the one vacuum line that is hooked up goes to a manifold source on the carb.

Hey everyone, I have a 72 Duster that was originally a /6 now a 318. The 318 came out of something newer from the looks of the emissions stuff on the engine. Pretty sure it was a truck because of the length of the harness that's in it now. Does anyone know what this cylinder is? I'm yanking...

There was some other junk down in the fender cubby hole so probably just fell out of a bag and slid into the slot.

For sure won't be handing them over to anyone but the owner or family. I'm military so know to deal with the VA only when absolutely necessary.

Its strange. It looks like it was modified to fit that way. Dunno if the dome socket is different than the bulb or just worn out or what. That bulb goes straight in, engages no problem and lights fine. The new bulb wouldn't fit without an unsafe amount of pressure to push into the socket. The...

The SSN is listed as being issued in Utah in the 60s. Been sending messages to everyone I can find on facebook with the same name

So I noticed it a while back while looking through the massive rust hole in my fender that there was something stuck in there. Looked interesting so I dug it out. It's the dog tags for a Scott E Page. I blurred the SSN out to protect their identity. Car is a West Coast car that was originally an...

Got some sand paper on a punch and cleaned it out pretty well in the car. Just reused the old bulb since it went in easier and after I fixed the main issue (fuse) it was fine. Thanks to everyone for the suggestions!