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I'm going to say this probably isn't his car, wheel openings in the rear and then also there doesn't look to have been a rear wing or spoiler ever mounted to this car.

Picked up out of So-Cal

Edelbrock 318/360 Performer intake. Spread bore but comes with adapter to go to 4150 flange. Located in Sacramento, CA. $175 obo

Set of bare 340 X heads. Need to be gone through but would make a nice set of heads. Look to be untouched other than the valve seals on the one heads. Located in Sacramento, CA. $350 obo

Definitely one of my inspiration, would love to get it sitting close to that!

Some pics of it sitting on a chassis from a couple owners before us

I have not yet, gentleman we got it from didn't know the history, need to contact him again and see if I can maybe get the info for the guy that he got it from to trace it back, am kind of curious as well.

Figured y'all would get a kick out of this. We picked up this body the other day and hopefully will start piling parts together over next couple years to get it built to go bracket racing with. Fully fiberglass, stretched and narrowed a little bit. Should be pretty fun!

Hmmm okay, luckily no ps so don't have to worry about that

Had anyone ever used these Headman headers in an A-Body? They came with the motor we bought and was curious if they could be made to work and save a solid chunk of money.

Hard to say, how much power actually want to make. First time we've had a big block, thing is going to make close to double anything that car has ever had in it as it sits. But it would be cool to optimize the set if there would be a better camshaft. It will a street car but will see the track...

Thoughts on on how much power a combination could make with that cam, comp roller tip rockers, rpm intake, headers, KB 237 Pistons flat decked, looks like ports were opened up and a compression ratio around 9.6-10.0

My bad, calm down bro jeez. Was straight when I posted it, didn't realize it twisted the image. Yeah idk, looks like 275DEF10 on top VA8860 on bottom

Hey there, so we ended up with a 440, but don't have really any specs on it. Was wondering if anyone could look at these numbers on the end of the camshaft and have an idea of what it potentially was and what the specs would be. Thank you

I don't, I should make one, car has been through a lot over last couple years with combinations that have been in and out of it things we've done to it

I'll be honest, not quite sure the full science behind it either so guess we'll see it works well or not lol. Mines not boosted but it's got some good cam behind it so it should be happy or not happy. I've used the sniper timing before on a 318 with there hall effects distributor and rotor in...

Do any of the adjustable rotors work on slant distributers? Sounds good, if I can get this to work like I think it should, I'll let ya know. There is definitely some power and drive ability with some actual timing control but at the same time if it's working why mess with it as well lol

Guess wording isn't right but what I mean. Instead of the distributor using weights like what the early one did, those one come with all that already taken out and are ready with the aid of like you said an msd box or in this case the sniper system itself to build a timing ramp through the sniper.

Did you ever figure out something for the timing control? I am about to attempt to do the same thing with our slant with a snipe and convert it over to letting the sniper control timing. Holley is right, you have to have an adjustable rotor because otherwise with everything locked out, there...

Should add the car has been completely rewired with an American Autowire update kit so isn't any old wiring or ballist resistor or any of that stuff

Have a bit of an odd extremely intermittent problem going. Have a LA 318 with a GMC style pro-form hei distributor. Every once in awhile the car will just turn off like key was turned off. No stumble or rough running, just an instant ignition cut. It'll instantly fire right back up no issues and...

Developed a what seems to be either low charge or no charge issues this morning and wanted to see what y'all think. It's a 67 Cuda with a American Auto wire update kit in it and a power master single wire alternator. Battery only shows 11.5 while running and doesn't go up with rpm. Battery is in...

Looks like it actually is something going on with the wheel cylinder, pulled it all out and just placed the shoe in and it hits the cylinder and doesn't let it go all the way to the pin

Tried pul Tried pulling around didn't do much, pulled the parking bar out and it still sitting off, wonder if cylinder or something is wrong like 67 dart is saying

That's the weird part, it won't compress onto the pin whatever try to do, kinda like it's hitting something but can't seem to see anything for it to be hitting. Probably going to pull it all apart and see iff anything visible that'd be stopping it from resting

Yes

Pic and wheel cylinder are newer and know park brake cables move and are good

Y'all have any ideas on what could cause the brake shoe to sit off like this? Causing brakes to excessively drag and heating them up and just isn't right. Not quite sure why they're sitting like that tho, old shoes seemed to sit same way.

Yeah been the problem, literally almost nothing out there. Found one set of rotors we're going to try and see if they're actually right or not

It doesn't come back that far, maybe 1/3 to 1/2 inch. As far as we know, everything was working correctly before changed mc. Have had everything apart, do know wheel bearings are good, spun nice and free and smooth. Potentially hose, but did replace one know recently and both sides were dragging...