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Thanks Kendog170 great idea!

Thanks 65Val

Thanks 4spdragtop. I will try this. I really prefer not to use the silicone.

Thanks SMCARNUT. I will consider the silicone.

Thanks Dogbreath. I'll check mine.

Thanks volaredon!

@Cruze418 you really have me thinking about that and I believe you are absolutely right. What I did was set the intake on the engine and also placed the cork front and rear gaskets on the block. That is how I got my gap measurement thinking that the front and rear cork gasket wasn't going to...

Will absolutley give them a call.

@volaredon absolutley wouldn't do it.

Hey guys still working on this 273 I picked up and have a question about intake manifold gaskets. The heads on this 273 have been milled .075 and the gap I have between the intake manifold and heads is .075. OEM gaskets are .060. I have found on Summit gaskets that are .125 thick (part...

I appreciate the input but I think I am going to move forward with what the engine had, adjustable rocker arms. Thanks!

Will do, thank you!

Thanks for the advice. 1/2 to 3/4 turn beyond zero it will be.

@CFD244 I was thinking zero lash but hadn't taken into consideration of turns beyond that. You don't believe the 1/2 or 3/4 turn will prematurely bottom them out and create more wear?

@Oldmanmopar I agree but when the rebuild was done they converted to hydraulic lifters and a cam for the application. I like that it has hydraulic lifters but was confused as to why the adjustable rocker arm assembly was maintained.

Hey guys I picked up a 1967 273 with 8k miles on it after a rebuild. I am in the process of replacing gaskets and fixing leaks. I pulled the valve covers and intake manifold and discovered it has hydraulic lifters with adjustable rocker arms. What would be the proper way of adjusting these...

SUCCESS!!! Filled the coolant system and ran it for about 30 minutes, NO LEAKS! Thanks to all for your suggestions.

@str12-340 Thanks!

@str12-340 I ran a thread chaser through both stud locations and blew them out clean and dry. Going to fill the system and run it tomorrow.

@Workingdog1 yes there is enough room to double nut. Iwill do that today, thanks!

@Workingdog1 Yes, that's how install them, double nut.

Thanks for the reassurance @MOPAROFFICIAL I sure hope it works!

Thank you @TT5.9mag ! Hopefully I won't to pull it apart again but if I do I will certainly consider your suggestion. Made note of it.

Thanks for the suggestion! I have made note of it and if the fix I just did doesn't work I'll try your suggestion.

Actual stud.

Thanks all for the advice. I cleaned everything up and dried it all out. Squirted the stud holes full of Ultra Copper and put all back together. Going to ket it sit for 3 days and then fill back up with coolant. I'll let you know how it turns out. Very frustrating to say the least. Trying to get...

@junkyardhero yes, 59214

@junkyardhero the top sealant was the one I was using and the bottom one is what I plan on using next.

@furrystamp I just checked that area and it appears to be dry. I read a thread on bbodys and I'm going to try the Ultra Copper rtv on the studs unless I hear something different hear. Thanks!

I have a 1989 LA318 roller installed in my 65 Dart GT and can't get the exhaust stud at #8 cylinder yo quit leaking anti freeze. I have pulled the stud out twice now and applied Permatex high temp thread sealer and it still leaks. Also put in a leak stopper in the system. Any suggestions/fixes...