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Bingo, did what you said and now it idles, thanks a lot. It doesn’t fire right off so I will have to start digging into that but at least it runs now. I’ll get the timing light out and try to dial the timing in as well.

Here are some pictures, don’t mind the messy shop, it’s a 1972 Plymouth Duster Gold Duster 318, 904, 8 3/4” rear end, 3.23 sure grip, sbp drums all the way around on slotted mags.

All, I have noticed that it only feels bound up after I try to add gas to the carb. This afternoon after having it sit all night I cranked from key and it cranked just fine, after I added gas to see if it would fire it started acting up. Heading to the auto store to get a piston stop now to...

1. Yes the key is in run position 2. No 3. I don’t know if it is timed properly 4. Dist wasn’t pulled 5. It rotates clockwise 6. I bypassed the ballast 8. Just checked cranking voltage at battery and it drops to 10.7v 9. Yes I followed the instructions and double checked at it is installed...

11.7v at coil + 12.3v at battery 8.5v at coil + while cranking from key 10.7v at batt while cranking from key

Just checked and my firing order is correct. Bypassed the resistor and I’m still experiencing the same issue. Ran through the ignition again and I get spark from coil as well as to the plug when I jump the relay. I had a helper observe the spark plug to engine block while I tried from the key...

Last ran 30 years ago. I’ll go take a look at it.

All my 1972 Duster seems to be having electrical issues. I have done the following: -New battery -New heavy cables -New ignition switch -New starter -New starter relay -New ballast resistor -New coil -New Distributor cap -Pertronix electronic ignition conversion -New plugs and wires -Additional...

Thanks to 67Dart273, I chased it down to the points, they weren’t opening far enough. Is it possible for a distributor’s lobes that open and close the points to wear out? It is extremely difficult to gap the points to .018or even .016 because the lobe seems to be rounded and not as sharp as they...

Messed around with the Duster tonight and tried bobsgtx method with the light test. When rotating the engine until the points were closed the coil neg stayed lit so the points are not grounding or there’s an open wire. 67Dart273 was correct it’s somewhere in the distributor. I have put in new...

After looking at the back of the engine I have found a threaded hole for a bolt on the rear of the cylinder head. I’m assuming that is the missing ground from engine to firewall so I will be picking up some cable to fix that ground. Bewy I will also go test ohms tomorrow. Thanks for the advice...

Not electronic ignition. The points are new so they aren’t corroded or faulty and when I rotate the motor you can see the points opening and closing. The only ground wire I can see is from the battery to cylinder head. Where else should there be grounds? Could the distributor be broken? How...

This forum has been a great resource over the years so first, thank you all for your knowledge. I have a 1972 Duster 318, 904, 8 3/4 rear end all in great shape. Sat in someone’s shop since 2000 until I bought it recently. I’m having two issues, the first is that it won’t turn over when in Park...