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To follow up, it's back together and back in the car. All 4 gears plus reverse work in and out (at least for the 5 miles it's done so far). Reverse was a nuisance until I realised I had flipped the lever over. Doesn't work that way. Fingers crossed it lasts another 20 years before I have to redo...

Brewers has that snap ring listed at .065 so I think it's fine. I'll check the play with the new gasket etc. when I get there. I'm aware of the limitations of this flavor of a833. I had a long time to stew on swapping to another option. It's fine for the slant. I'm guessing I will...

Understood. The front bearing (308) snap ring on the input shaft is 0.0640". You are suggesting a thicker snap ring to move that rearward? Or shim the mainshaft forward?

I just realized I have an endoscope. If it comes to it, I can have it all assembled and look through the fill hole. Wish that had occurred to me earlier. C'est la vie. :rolleyes:

Thanks. I have thought how lovely that would be. Unfortunately, not a spare case in sight. We'll see how it goes with new keys and then reassess.

For those playing at home, the lever moves 1/2" in either direction. Same on both. After trying very hard to keep the problem strut assembly together so I didn't lose track of what bits caused the problem, I finally caught it doing the bad thing. Which leads me to the part that I think is...

Still not having an aha moment. I have disassembled the transmission. The synchro springs are all in place and hooked in different struts. Nothing is obviously out of place. Neither bearing has any discernible side motion. On the plus side, I exhumed the small box containing the old parts from...

I'm hoping there's some obvious spring thing going on with that one strut when I disassemble. I engaged 4th/od with the 3/4 lever (only) in the side cover and the other two struts are flat. Only the one adjacent the chipped stop ring is popped up.

Thanks to you both. It's been so long since I rebuilt it (pre me digitally recording everything) I don't have a picture of what bearing is in the front. I dug out the receipt and the rings are wt307-14 quantity of 4. Unfortunately, the bearings were listed as RBK (rebuild kit) without any...

Direct drive photo. And no, I didn't pop the struts on purpose. In fact, before removing the cover I tried very hard to shift into 4th and then not move the lever so I could see where it was ending up from the lever motion. The previous photo is not from that attempt, but it's hard to get the...

That's actually 3rd or direct drive gear in the photo. I have zero memory of whether the snap ring in the front is new or factory. I will be mindful of that when it comes apart and goes back together.

I thought there were 2 types brass ring options and the one on the left is the later version. ???

Thanks for replying. I would like to go through these one by one so I'm clear. 1) I read you said at least .050 clearance and there is at least that. The part of this that concerns me is that this brass ring has more space to move laterally than the others. 2) By feel, each key is supported by...

I have an 833od behind a slant six (out of a feather duster originally) that I rebuilt a little over 10 years ago. Recently, it got stuck in 4th gear. Disconcerting when it happens. After several attempts on the freeway offramp, it came out. I thought it must be a shifter rod coming loose as...

Just to add my experience. I have a Maverick rear end (5 bolt) in my 64 Valiant. It's been a couple of years IIRC. Charrlie's data is spot on. It fits like it was made for it. It's pretty basic for the possibilities it opens up. I believe it wasn't much more to get the Maverick rear, build it...

[Edit: I have deleted what's been taken and added an alternator.] I've finally got around to pulling out all the things i'm never going to use. Sorry i'm listing it all in Mechanical, but it seemed the most efficient way to post and monitor. There are a couple of important points. First, I'm in...

I hope you got a good one eventually. I'm looking at the moment. Who did you get it from and how did it look?

Thank you. Where were you with your meter suggestion when I had the old one hooked up? :D And yes, I believe I understand the difference between the regulators. The old style regulator regulates how much current reaches the alternator (with the alternator case as ground) and the new style...

Sorry for the delay. I finally got it all together on Saturday. Naturally, when I came here to update, the server was offline for a while. :( It was amazing how much work replacing the regulator was compared to replacing the alternator. I now have a relay triggered by the original connector and...

Thank you.

Thank you. I've swapped back to the old one temporarily. Daily driver and all that. I will try what you suggested next time. I am going to get the later style (vr125, the one with the triangle plug) regulator and see if that sorts it out. I'll post a follow up either way, brain permitting. And...

Thanks. I think that might be the relevant bit, newer style regulator. I have an electronic vr128. But I think the VR125 might be necessary. I don't know how they function differently. I thought they were same but one has a plug and one doesn't. What VR do you have exactly?

I am trying to upgrade my 64 Valiant from the old round back alternator to a nippondenso alternator. Specifically, I have a Remy 94616 that in the books goes to a 1991 B150 van. The regulator is a Standard VR128. I have already bypassed the ammeter. The charge wire is 8 ga and goes through a...

It has a new home. First Dart, then Valiant, and back to Dart. Thanks.

Yep, Redondo Beach. Sorry for leaving that out.

I just replaced this with a Ford 8". I don't have a use for it. It is complete end to end and worked just fine. 2.76 ratio. Weeps oil at the gasket. No e-brake cables. I originally pulled it off a '74 Dart Swinger. Most of the brake parts are only a few thousand miles old. One spring perch broke...

The seats are taken. Thanks Duane, it was a pleasure meeting you.

I acquired a couple of bucket seats out of a ’66 Dart in order to sort out a seat swap in my Valiant. The seats are complete, but completely disassembled, no foam, no fabric, just the hard bits. They are a gold/bronze color. You pick them up and they’re yours. I'm in Los Angeles, in the South...

I think I phrased that poorly. I didn't mean to imply the timing of the spark was changing. I meant timing in the broader sense. The valves are opening and closing at a different time in relation to the spark.

I hadn't considered hydraulic. That may be what he meant. I have a slant and, yes, the FSM instructs you to adjust the valves hot and running. That may have been what caught my eye initially. If you alter the lash, the overlap will change, but the amount of vacuum will also depend on the timing...