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They both mount to the axle so I'd say whichever one is lighter.

Dunno either, but I can say if you think a R&P will bolt in to the stock steering arms and maintain the same steering angle, you're gonna be disappointed.

I've never measured the exact layout on an A body, but I can say that on my E body, a 1" relocate was approximately a 10# difference in wheel rate. 3" relocate would be about 30# difference. This is per side, not combined. Most coil springs are offered in 50# increments, so a 10# difference...

For a street car, they should have plenty of travel. However, in a street application you also want to maintain a regular inspection schedule as dirt, debris, and other road junk can get in them and bind and break stuff.

Electric power steering is about $8-10k. A whole suspension, lord knows what that would cost.

Shocks only determine how quickly or slowly the suspension will bottom out. The t-bars/springs determine whether or not it will or won't bottom out. If bottoming out the suspension, only sure fire cure is new t-bars and leaf springs. Springs on the shocks and high pressure shocks are only band...

I've had rubber that has squeaked, so it is no guarantee either, but is less susceptible to squeaking than either poly. I've had better luck with poly graphite than straight poly urethane. regular lube jobs do help though.

Thanks guys. Now one other item I need help with,the motion ratio. On the lower control arm, what is the measurement from the center of the t-bar/pivot to teh sway bar mounting tab?

Do aftermarket mount up the same as stock? If there is a difference in the physical size, then there would be a difference in rate. I'm assuming they are like most other body styles and the only difference between the two is maybe an extra inch in width at the end links.

Wow, nobody has any measuremetns for a sway bar? I'll plug in the numbers if you provide dimensions.

I'm looking for some members who can provide me with some measurements on A body sway bars. Best thing to do to make sure we're all talking the same language is to use this calculator. Once you plug in your numbers, post up the results here. Thanks...

I still have copies of all of these available for purchase.

Is the rack in front or in back of the wheel centerline?

Mostly seen them used in oval track appplications. Alignment to prevent binding is critical during installation. They also will require periodic inspection and lubrication. They are not a set it and forget it type of part like shackles.

Sounds like you forgot to tighten a few things down. Even if adjusted incorrectly, things don't move unless they are loose. Make sure the upper control arms, pitman arm, and lower control arm bolts are all torqued.

Whats your budget and driving intentions? Alter K is going to run upwards of a few grand to set up. Certainly you aren't the first to run into a 5.7 conversion issue. What other solutions are out there?

I've acquired a bunch of posters recently and there are multiples of a number of them that I'd like to pass along. Most are 24x36 in size, all are laminated with a glossy cover, and are nice clear shots of cars in competition from back in the day. I do not know the point of origin of these, so...