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i'm interested in the 3.91 if you're selling it. i have a 3.23 center section already but i plan on using that only if the car has to take a long trip say to bowling green or something, but rarely does it see highway use.

driving this car i tend to have a lead foot... stock converter, i dont know exact specs on cam, i'd say its something short lift long duration, intake is an edelbrock high rise.

walkaround of the car https://youtu.be/pIoEDhXm124

pic for general idea on tire size

hey fabo, putting together an 8.75 rear for my scamp, its currently got a 340/904. not sure exactly how tall of a tire i have but i'll upload a pic for a general idea. right now it has a 7.25 with a 2.76 gear, its still pretty fast compared to the average vehicle, but i know a ring and...

oh yeah. really meet seeing how everything works. I've always been deathly afraid of transmissions, but it's really not bad! only set me back $65!

just an update, I got the chance to learn to rebuild torqueflites so I rebuilt mine and the problem was as you all had said, the forward band. I will take pictures of the old band tomorrow and post to show you just how bad it was

thank you, and I'll probably be set on parts, my teacher is a mopar guy and has TONS of stuff, so I'll take it up to the school next week and really get into it.

okay, I've got a 904 behind a really mild 340. low compression '73 with a little cam and headers. anyways, it's got 7.25 rear with 2.45 gears for now while I finish up my 8.75, and me and some buddies were playin around on the interstate, with this gearing I've found that 40 is the sweet spot to...

the guts. changing from those welded spiders to an actual suregrip. shoulda made it clearer.

I've got an a-body 8.25 from an ex-drag car, which is rad compared to the 7.25 under the car now, but it's got welded spiders and the gears are 2.45. I plan on going to the junkyard and grabbing a SureGrip from a Dakota as well as ring and pinion, I believe Daks had 3.55 and 3.91, what all goes...

I think it'd be cool if someone could fit one of those 9-speed automatics from the new darts in our cars.

thanks. I've also been told to look into 3.73 gears. that's what my girlfriends stepdad has in his 350 s10 and it'll get there quick but he stays away from the interstate.

I have a 74 scamp with a 340 swapped in it and I'm wondering why I'm going slow. - edelbrock 4bbl, not sure what cfm - magnum cam - Accel super stack coil - edelbrock performer rpm intake - it's one of them low compression 340's. currently have a tf727 but plan on swapping for a 4...

I adjusted that linkage and it shifts GREAT now. thanks everyone!

could someone post a pic of what it should look like at idle?

there was a small spring laying between the intake runners when I bought the car. maybe that's where it goes. haha. thanks for all the help. also,

okay but how do I get the play out of it? more washers? cause it moves left and right, and back and forth. also, why will it not shift when I tell it to? for example, to test it I put the shifter in 2nd, but the tranny drove as it would if it were in drive, starting off in 1st.

it seems like a nut and washer would make more sense than a cotter pin. I'm in school right now so I can't post any clear pictures but I'll post what I've got.

yes the linkage is complete, but is it supposed to be held on with a cotter pin? I feel like it shouldn't be that loose

the kick down lever is held on there with a pin and I can slide it back and forth with my hand. I'm assuming that's no good? that maverick I had before this scamp didn't even have a kickdown lever so I figured it was unimportant. how should this thing be adjusted? also, why might it be using so...

from the researching I've done so far this has happened to alot of people. I was a ford guy who made the wise decision to switch to the mopar side of things, and I'm absolutely loving it, except I can't figure out this tranny for the life of me. on my 74 maverick the c4 tranny was eating up...