727 shift points suck and it eats up fluid.

-
Hyperballsmcgee

Hyperballsmcgee

Well-Known Member
Joined
May 5, 2013
Messages
227
Reaction score
0
Location
Murfreesboro, TN
from the researching I've done so far this has happened to alot of people. I was a ford guy who made the wise decision to switch to the mopar side of things, and I'm absolutely loving it, except I can't figure out this tranny for the life of me. on my 74 maverick the c4 tranny was eating up fluid an not shifting right, replaced the vacuum mod and all was good, but the tf727 on my 74 scamp also appears to be sucking fluid down like gas, but there's no smoke out the exhaust, and from what I can see and read there's no vacuum mod. I'm not too savvy in the Trans department, so any help at all is appreciated!

I suppose y'all need the symptoms. besides going through fluid, the shift points(with fluid in it) are: 1st to 2nd: 25 mph, 2nd to 3rd: 55 mph. when it gets down to 40 mph it slams back down into second. sometimes at a red light it doesn't go back to 1st. it also absolutely will not shift manually (1-2, 2-D). I'm used to the c4 tranny shifting EXACTLY when I told it too, as well as (when it was in drive) going into 3rd gear when it was coasting.

thanks for reading and thanks in advance for any and all help!
 
Do you have the kickdown (throttle pressure linkage) hooked up and adjusted properly?
 
the kick down lever is held on there with a pin and I can slide it back and forth with my hand. I'm assuming that's no good? that maverick I had before this scamp didn't even have a kickdown lever so I figured it was unimportant. how should this thing be adjusted? also, why might it be using so much fluid?
 
Hyperballsmcgee said:
the kick down lever is held on there with a pin and I can slide it back and forth with my hand. I'm assuming that's no good? that maverick I had before this scamp didn't even have a kickdown lever so I figured it was unimportant. how should this thing be adjusted? also, why might it be using so much fluid?
Click to expand...
that kickdown (throttle pressure) has to be hooked up, or you run the risk of burning up the trans. 727's LEAK , they don't use fluid, make sure you don't have fluid in your coolant. a pic of the drivers side carburetor would help
 
At Wide open throttle the lever on trans should be all the way back to the rear of the car....Do you have all the pieces to the linkage?
 
it seems like a nut and washer would make more sense than a cotter pin. I'm in school right now so I can't post any clear pictures but I'll post what I've got.
 
Yeah that looks correct. You need to make sure it's adjusted correctly like brownnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnn said.
 
Oh and about the fluid loss, if it's not leaking out on the ground, it's being evaporated by overheating because the transmission is likely slipping without that linkage adjusted right. It's not a phord or chebbie. It's a Mopar. It has to have that linkage hooked up and adjusted right or it will burn up starting with high gear. Most phords are the same way which could explain your mishap there as well. The factory puts things on cars for a reason usually.
 
okay but how do I get the play out of it? more washers? cause it moves left and right, and back and forth. also, why will it not shift when I tell it to? for example, to test it I put the shifter in 2nd, but the tranny drove as it would if it were in drive, starting off in 1st.
 
Again, it's not a phord. Torqueflites don't start off in the gear you put them in. You put it in 2nd, it starts in first then shifts to second and no further. the lateral movement is no biggie. Also if it was mine, I would put a spring at the front of the slot in the linkage and hook it to wherever the throttle return spring is. This will assure the linkage will return all the way forward.
 
there was a small spring laying between the intake runners when I bought the car. maybe that's where it goes. haha. thanks for all the help. also,
 
Missing the spring! You need a spring on the sliding arm that keeps the lever all the way forward when idling. It clips on the kick down pivot bracket and onto the carb pin.
 
that spring has to be on the linkage or it will not shift correctly but you already discovered this.

back to top pic, that flat end on the rod is how it's adjusted. the longer you make the rod the higher the shift point. keep making it longer until you happy with the way it's shifting.
 
RustyRatRod said:
Again, it's not a phord. Torqueflites don't start off in the gear you put them in. You put it in 2nd, it starts in first then shifts to second and no further. the lateral movement is no biggie. Also if it was mine, I would put a spring at the front of the slot in the linkage and hook it to wherever the throttle return spring is. This will assure the linkage will return all the way forward.
Click to expand...

Exactly.
That TP rod needs to be all the way back when the throttle is wide open, and return to full forward at idle.
I see that just sitting it is already a little bit back to far (probably causing your late harsh shifts.
There is sometimes a return spring from the cotter pin hole on the back end of that rod that runs to the pin that is in the slot to return it forward as the throttle linkage comes forward from letting off the throttle.
Some people also put a spring on the fron of the slotted part to pull the linkage forward as you let off the gas.
That slotted part is how you make your shift points higher or lower.
Lengthen the rod and it'll shift harder and later.

As Lance and Ink said, there is no place for fluid to go but a leak or into the coolant because of a leaking cooling coil in the bottom of the radiator.

As stated, fluid can evaporate but at the temp it takes to do that your fluid would be dark and burnt smelling.

You don't need to worry about your trans slipping in the current configuration because it is doing the opposite.
(High pressures causing firmer engagement and stronger holding power on the clutches and bands.

Get a spring on it first to return the linkage forward then drive it.
If it still shift late and hard screw that slotted part on further to shorten the rod and test drive it after each adjustment.
 
He could still not have enough throttle pressure at speed. He said it was shifting into 2nd at 25 and 3rd at 55. If that's with the pedal floored, it's shifting way too soon, if not, it could be about right.
 
shifter1.jpg

coupesteering019.jpg
 
The linkage should be pulled all the way forward until the rear of the slot bottoms against the carb stud, like this. Also you need to adjust it so that the lever at the transmission is pushed all the way BACK at full throttle.
 

Attachments

  • faucet%20pics%20834.jpg
    116.1 KB · Views: 256
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top