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bigblockdart.com has a tech page and they did one for a big block. i know thats not much help but some words implied that they got the specs from direct connection. maybe thats a lead to find the specs you need:)

valve stem length. i had the same crane gold rockers and eddy heads and found the same problem; to far out on the stem. i saw that you have already put stamped rockers on so its a little late for this info but i spoke with a crane rep. and he sad that their rockers are not compatible with eddy...

are you using the right converter to match the internal/external balance of the engine? i have a 360 and my balancer is weighted and my converter is neutral balanced. also make sure your bolts are tight to the tranny and anywere else.

i notched mine to fit that pan. i also reinforced the whole thing with perimeter welds.

my off idle response is pathetic. i have a 360 650 demon ported eddy heads 2600 hundred stall in a 727 with good work done to it. what kind of idle speed should i get out of this cam? is there something i can read? right now i want to "blame" the carb but really i want to know...

i have a 360 and the balancer is wobbling. it was a new stock style replacement . i think i need to replace now it but i dont want this to happen again so what quality of a balancer should i be looking into? the engine spins as high as 6500 rpm. this was a perfectly good balancer when i...

and some places will tint your windows so dark you will get pulled over by the first cop who sees you.

idea/question. if the whole engine and trubo project is to spendy then what if you just did the engine to the the needed specs of a trubo and then added the turbo later? is that not a realistic idea or am sounding really dumb right now?

my buddy is a smog guy in California and as of now a 1975 is exempt from smog testing so do what ever the hell you want to it just as long as it dont blow smoke or cause you to get a ticket for noise. what matters in california "smog exempt" on not. however he did state that by the "letter of...

you dont need that thing. that shape i tried to make is a one piece deal. like a bent up strap and the coil goes in the hole then bolts right to the intake. on the passenger side between the distributor and carb.

ya, i hear ya but it aint my car and he dont wont to get into it that far. its for sale and cheap.

the ones i have seen are round with a tighting screw on the bottom side. then there are two flanges that come out on both sides. kinda like this _0_

i have read things on port matching the intake to the heads to help with flow. its what i did on mine. i am under the impression that the runners should still be just a little smaller than the intake runners on the head for better flow.

if you change your cam up consider the right converter as well.

i have a 284 /484/114 in my 360. it is 10.2 to 1 comp and pulls 6inch at 700+rpm in gear.

:)

the knocking is there more so when it warms up. i will look into the ting cause it sounds possibly external.

the engine has some noise but its more like a knocking in general and a interesting tingy rattle when it come off a small rev. beats me.

im woking on a 70s dart with a 318. it sat in some ones backyard for many a year and is now running again. it seems as though some of the lifters wont pump up and are squishy. i dont wont to dig any further than the valve covers. so im wondering if i can add something like marvel mystery or...

what about high volume?

2000 mile as far as i know. its so the metal in the engine is saturated with real oil as far as i understand. as for the zinc; best answer is always the source, ask hughes.

"Anyother torque makers on the engine now?" what do you mean? the engine is 10.2 to 1 284/484 114* purple shaft. eddy heads & air gap, port matched. tti headers and a 650 demon i pull 6 inch vac at idle in gear. 700-800 rpm

any one ever used rhoads lifters? i was thinkin about putting a set in to strengthen my lower end torque/HP and vacuum. i also figured it would be easier than pulling the converter and having it reworked for a few more RPMs. my cam has about 4000 miles on it so will that matter as to whether i...

any one ever used rhoads lifters? i was thinkin about putting a set in to strengthen my lower end torque/HP and vacuum. i also figured it would be easier than pulling the converter and having it reworked for a few more RPMs. my cam has about 4000 miles on it so will that matter as to whether i...

go there. http://bigblockdart.com/ they can tell you what you need to do. but like cudaspaz said, i would go with a hot small block. thats what i did. the brakes work better and the so does the steering wheel. i have a 360 in mine and its scary fast.

i did mine with the engine in and out (had the engine in and out a few times now) i found it the easiest when they were in place and i dropped the engine in after, the tranny was in then. if the engine is just in at the motor mounts maybe lift it back out and get the headers in first. ALSO...

call me stupid but why are only "old car" cams worrying about this? all cars have cams last i knew. are the "new cars" using a different steel for their cams? or is this more of a high lift high load issue?

ya mine runs fast as hell too, just never seen vacuum this low. i have checked all the bolts around the the intake many times over. rumblefish you say that the cam will cause this if its out? which way, advanced or retarded or either?

i have built myself an engine that only seems to draw about 6~7 pounds vacuum. the cam is 241@50 duration with 484 lift. the engine is 10 to 1. is this normal for this much cam or should i be seeing higher vacuum draw?