Search results for query: *

I too removed my factory AC when I was more interested in trips to the track than having that big tumor perched in front of the carb. Fast forward and I have now reinstalled all the underhood components, rebuilt RV, refurbished hoses, new drier and converted to 134. The original evaporator and...

Well the system is still working and this is day 2, so maybe it will hold for a long time. Thanks

Got a call late today and car is ready.. I will pick it up tomorrow morning. The mechanic said there is no apparent reason for the seal failure, but all refrigerant had escaped. I hope it holds a charge for a long time! It's hot in south Louisiana. Thanks. Gary

The car is currently back at the shop that did the work and they are waiting on new seal. The mechanic has worked on these old Mopars for years and seems to be knowledgeable. He said he has done numerous 134 conversions, so hopefully he will get it figured out. Pete This is for my peace...

I had a member here be build my hoses with barrier hoses for 134and my compressor was rebuilt. I will have them very carefully check the shaft. I understand that you can run the seal if you handle it. You must coat in oil prior to installation. Thanks. Gary

I had a shop get the AC for my 74 Duster up and running. New hoses, expansion valve, and the compressor was gone through. They flushed the original evaporator and condenser and installed new drier. Held a vacuum with no problem, then charged with 134 with the proper oil and AC was working...

The plug in for the 3 speed fan switch for my 74 Duster AC still works but you can see that it has overheated and the metal contacts in the plastic connector are fused together. I want to replace the plug in connector, but should I replace the switch and the fan motor? I am getting my AC system...

On my particular 74 the heater core is 1/2" X 5/8" with the heater valve going on the 1/2" side. The proper valve is Four Season 74690 which is 1/2" and normally open. No one makes this type of valve that physically attaches to the fender as the original. At least it will work, I'll just have...

If yours is original, could you possibly look for a part number? I would like to locate an original before I try for the truck type valve. Thanks, Gary

Loads of info in this reply! I'm now on my way. Thanks. Gary

Well thanks AJ for a helpful reply. It's only been 8 years since the engine bay was stripped of everything and I honestly couldn't remember. I've slept since then.

I was looking for an answer and I get this worthless bit of crap. Thanks crazycuda

I will be trying to get factory AC up and running this week in my 74 Duster and need help on routing the vacuum lines. I pulled the 318 and AC components a few years back and installed a 5.9 Magnum minus the AC. At the present I have a small vacuum line coming thru the firewall near the AC...

And the work he does would surpass what classic air would have done!! And he did it at a very, very reasonable price. It's people on this forum like Charlie that allow us to continue the MoPar experience. Thanks, Gary

Thanks for the replies! I had a feeling it was vacuum operated, all vendors offer the mechanical. Hopefully someone will know the proper open/closed type of valve.

I need to get the proper heater valve for my Duster with factory AC. There is a nipple in place of the valve. I have looked for the valve online and each vendor shows a mechanical valve but I only have a small vacuum line nearby and no cable. Thanks. Gary

Bill Would you refurbish my hoses? Do you cut the factory crimp off and reuse my fittings? Another question, my liquid line is all steel and rusty in appearance. Should I treat with a rust converter and spray on a zinc coating? Thanks. Gary

I tried Champion CC 374 for my 74 duster to replace original 26" radiator. Ordered from Amazon for 183.00 and it to was a beautiful polished radiator but no where close to fitting in original position and shroud did not fit either. I had a buddy at Oreilly order a factory replacement and it...

I got a revised quote and it is now 539.99. Now the decision will be very easy, I will have them send them back to me and take a chance that they are in good condition. My AC system is totally original and I want to go with 134. I've been told to keep the original compressor as they are built...

I agree it is high, but I guess I'll bite the bullet and have them do it. I've seen videos and it looks to be an easy and rather quick process. They charge $90.00 per hour for labor and I assume the hoses are lined with rare earth materials. Thanks, Gary

I posted an earlier thread about where to get hoses rebuilt and exhausted all local vendors. I sent my 3 hoses to Classic Air and they quoted $354. This quote is for the 3 lines/hoses for a 74 Duster V-8. They plan to replace the all metal line, replace the rubber portion of the other 2...

I only want to have my hoses rebuilt since they are the originals and this will be a driver. It gets really hot in south Louisiana and I want to be ready. I know the 2 rubber hoses have minor leaks and the metal hose that runs along the top of the fender is rusty and I'm not sure if it will...

I have a 74 Duster with original AC and need to have the 2 rubber hoses and 1 steel line restored. I will be converting to 134 and can't find a local shop to make the repairs. Any suggestions? Thanks. Gary