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Did you try increasing your idle speed? Could just be that your engine was idling too low. Try setting your idle speed at 800-900 rpm while someone holds the brake and has the transmission in drive.

I put one on a couple weeks ago. Got the alternator and brackets and pigtail in a kit for around $200 from Mancini. It's awesome. I can now idle at 800 rpm with the electric fuel pump, stereo, headlights, A/C on high and electric fan and it's still charging. My old alternator wouldn't charge...

I'm currently putting in a denso conversion kit I bought from Mancini Racing. Supposed to put out a lot more amps at idle. I think your turn signal issue is something not related to your alternator.

Here's some pictures. The one of the engine bay shows the wires coming from the mallory unit behind the firewall. I also have a 12V starter cable and 12V power cable coming through there since I moved the battery to the trunk. I left the ballast resistor and ignition box in place so I can...

I'll get you some pictures tomorrow of the install. As for your questions: I've had it for one month, I did some searching online and didn't see too many bad reviews. I have had problems with MSD and I was nervous about this one. I'm hoping installing it away from engine heat and with a...

I tried one, didn't get it to work. Maybe I hadn't wired it right, but I returned it and bought a Mallory hyfire. It is such a more capable unit for only about $100 more. It is multiple spark, has 2 step rev limiter, window switch if you want to use nitrous in the future, adjustable spark...

I would first get your distributor curved at FBO. I've got his whole set up, although I just installed a mallory hyfire 685. It has all the bells and whistles, digital rev limiter, 2-step, start retard, window switch and selectable retard (for nitrous). It's just a little bit more than the...

cgraff - I plan on doing the same thing. I'm planning on keeping the ammeter connected but running the charge wire from the alternator to the relay post and connecting the old charge wire to the post too. If your ammeter is in good shape there shouldn't be a need to bypass it as charging...

I just thought I'd update my with my own ignition issue. I tried that pertronix limiter and I never got it to work. I just said the hell with it and returned it. I think I'm going to go with the Mallory Hifire VI (model 685). It has a built in rev limiter, start retard and rpm window switch...

Pertronix has an adjustable digital rev limiter. You can get it on amazon for $123 and shipping is free. It works with factory ignition, not a capacitive discharge system. It's made in the USA and has a 1 year warranty. I've got one I'm about to install. I am tired of MSD for the same...

Good choice, you won't regret it!

Yes! Call Don and talk to him. I sent my distributor and he rebuilt it, put the right curve in it based on my combo and gave me a new box and coil. The best $200 I've spent on my engine. I went through 2 MSD systems that failed and I'm never going back. He also will give you a book on...

what gauges are those?

This is how I check mine, but you'd need a timing light with an advance knob on it or you could put a timing tape on your damper. If you don't know how much total timing you have you're not gonna getting all the power your engine has to offer...

those intial timing settings from the factory were likely based on emissions and your engine could use more initial advance than they put in the haynes manual. what I do is disconnect the vaccuum hose from the distributor, hold the engine at 4.5k rpm so the full mechanical advance is all in...