Search results for query: *

Glad to help friend, I stumbled on to that picture this week, as I am going to offer my 340s set for sale. I was shocked at that price, but if he had a pair, I bet it would break the bank. Wow, you did a very nice job on those. Very nice! I have always left the chrome showing, just because I...

Here is an NOS insert, probably the best example I have seen. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1968-Barracuda-Formula-S-383-NOS-Hood-Insert-Mopar-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem1e6142d370QQitemZ130480788336QQptZVintageQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

That is what I used on my drivers side. I just had to extend the vertical portion down farther for the Barracuda.

I have a friend that does this, and has made the special tooling to do them. He restores the whole sets of grilles, and did mine. The bolts he puts back into them are the correct ones.

Back up lights are different in all three years. Short in 67, around the tail lights in 68 and longer in 69. Of course the tail lights, rear panels are different as well. Lots of little subtle differences, windshield/window trim, light bezels, on and on.

I did, but then I put it back. I wonder if you can still buy it from Eastwood? I still have some.

I don't have one, but that color actually looked pretty good as a vinyl top, but I didn't care for it as a 68 Barracuda interior option.

It really depends on the trim level of the car, including the engine option. Formula S? /6? 273? 383? Lots of variations.

Here is what I highly recommend for "matte" finishes. :D

Good advice! I burnt through a few paint jobs back when I was buying those cheap Montgomery Ward $35 buffers. A few years ago, I was finally able to swing a good Milwaukee unit. I think the size of the pad and quality of the bad has a large bearing on it as well. Wow, you made that...

That looks great. Another tip that I find helpful, is to get some 1/4 inch masking tape, and apply to all of the edges. It really helps me, then when I am done with the power buffing, I remove the tape and do the edges by hand.

I think it looks great, but the car color makes a difference. :D

Love that color on the Dart, and the /6 looks great as well. Props for putting the /6 back in.

I just don't like the 70s "high impact" colors on the earlier cars, especially the 67-69 Barracudas that happen to be my favorite. I have seen many of them painted with these colors, and they just don't work for me. I kind of regret not painting my convertible a silver, gun metal gray, or even...

I am with you, and often wish I would have painted mine Silver, or Burgandy instead of Viper Red.

I agree totally, and just reflecting on the 50+ cars I have owned, never had a vinyl top car. :D

Wow, wish I had known that AMD made that rear body panel for these cars. I spent a lot of hours, making a cut off rear piece work on my car. I paid a lot for it, including shipping, and had a lot of work after I got it.

Wecome to Fabo! I have done both, without dimensions. Don't have a clue where you would ever find them. I just went by the pictures (on my Formula S fastback) that came with graphics on my stripes, since I didn't paint them on. I think you could do the same with painting. As far as the...

I just prefer single stage, for repair reasons. Anyone that says you can't buff it out, I have no idea what they are talking about. This is Concept, the next day after shooting. I love the stuff.

They are very tricky to adjust. I noticed you don't have factory bolts, I feel for you guys that don't have a big stash of them. The bar, with the nuts welded to it, that is inside the sheet metal of the hood, needs to be at the right angle, or it will bind the hinges going down. I have...

I have one of those really good Milwaukee buffers, and paid top price for it. For years I bought those cheap ones and rubbed through the paint on a few cars.

The guy that did mine, did a great job. He has all the special tools, takes them totally apart, polishes them, has them anodized, uses the right bolts, the whole shot. He has sold quite a few sets at swap meets etc. I haven't talked to him in quite some time, but if you are interested in his...

They are getting harder and harder to find. The 69s are the hardest to find, then the 68s. For the price this guy is asking, the headlight doors should be included, and he is still just a tad high. I have a buddy that sells restored ones, which is what I have on mine.

I did one for a friend, I think it was over 10 hours of just masking. I didn't charge him anything, and even paid for the paint out my own pocket. He still wasn't happy, and didn't use it.

The burden of proof is on the supplier, not the customers. Reputations are earned, both bad and good. Sometimes the best thing to do, is to start a new company.

I for one, hope Layson's has changed how they do business, and turn things around. But I have been in this hobby prior to Year One, and any of these other places. I used to buy from "Motor City Originals" and was sorry to see them go out. I haven't purchased from Year One in many years...

I had to use a dart piece, and extend the part that mates to the bottom of the fender. It has been a few years, but I think that was the only difference.

Thanks, I will check with a dealer! Right now I have the 65 Barracuda rear window plastic in the slot, and it looks ok, but doesn't match up to the stainless at all. If anyone is interested, I have the stainless piece off a different year car, but mine doesn't have the clips. It isn't...

That is great information, do you know what year Ramcharger, or is it all of them?

Looks great! That is always an exciting time!