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We won't be happy till the car runs in the 10's. That was Steve's goal. Some of my favorite memories of building the car was figuring out the engine placement using the Magnaforce front end. Figuring out crankshaft offset with lazer beams, plumb bob's, etc on the chassis jig using a mock up...

That would be her.

Here ya go. http://www.nadodge.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=3912&d=1334356260

Footbraked the car on the first pass. Spun the tires. Left off the transbrake on the 2nd pass and snapped the output shaft on the transmission. So much for Friday. Steve picked up a 904 at the swap meet and Denny repaired the transmission and had the car up and running again for Saturday...

That vid was leaving off the line around 4000 rpm which was the limit of the brakes holding under part throttle boost without pushing the car. With the transbrake the car is now capable of leaving off the line at 6500 rpm (thats where its chipped at) under full boost.

The transbrake works great! 1st stop was in Denver tonite. Will be in Vegas tomorrow.

Agreed on the gapless top rings. My last Hemi also had them and talk about using oil. I think the top gapless is too effcient so the 2nd ring can't do its job properly. Once I introduced vaccum in the crankcase my oil usage issues went away. I'm not going gapless this time around either.

BINGO! Running rich at idle and living with the idle surge is waaay cheaper than a good idle and running lean under boost.

Are you guy's using the Total Seal top gapless ring? If so, the top ring gaps are tighter. I can see a .015" ring gap for the bottom oil rings, but a .015" ring gap on the 2nd ring with a 4.402" bore put's up a RED ballon. I'd call Keith @ Total Seal and get some straight answer's.

Most piston ring manufacturers recommend a minimum end gap of .004 inches times the bore diameter for the top piston compression ring. So for a 4 inch bore, the standard end gap would be .016 inches. For the 2nd compression ring, the standard end gap recommendation for most stock engines...

Usually that blower surge at idle is caused from being to rich, however I love the sound of mine.

Bill, Since your's is a turbo build and our's is supercharged, I guess it would depend on how much boost you build and how much boost your brakes can handle on the line. While we were waiting on the custom 4000 stall converter we threw in a stock converter to get some tuning time in. While...

3000 stall? Does Hughs know its going into a /6 turbo?

Bill, I feel your pain. Basically the same thing happened when we ordered a custom billet converter for our SL/6 Duster. Basically the builder forgot to take the crank bolts in to consideration when he built it even after giving him a stock converter and flex plate to use for measurements...

Made many of passes with 12-14 psi and a 125 shot.

Won't be happy till she's in the 10's. That's my story and I'm stickin to it.

Installed a DSC1 Supercharger Store blower kit on the 71 Duster EFI Slant 6. Even with a 5000 stall converter she's pretty much a slug coming out of the hole. 3105 race weight with fuel and driver. High 1.60/low 1.70 60 fts. With our data logging it takes 1.4 seconds for it to hit 5000 rpm...

Thanks guy's. Hoping to hit high 10's in the 1/4 with the 6. Only had it to the track once. Best 60' was a 1.60. Thinking about a trans brake for next year.

My Ram Rumble Bee 4x4. 11.03@118

2005 Ram 1500 project.

71 Duster Slant 6 project. So far, best time was a 7.19@98 in the 1/8.