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Finally got around to rebuilding my big block A body pedal box. Pulled it apart, bead blasted it, grind and knock out the old bent clutch pedal locating pin, put the new one in, set the pedal clearance distance, tig welded it back on. Primed and painted. Job done. :)

Huh,turns out that is an original part used. 1 needle bearing used on each side of the pedal assembly large bush to support the clutch rod. Brewers has all the bits I need. :)

I did have them in wrong. I also had the spring indexed incorrectly. Should have been like this. No freeplay now. :) Now for the pedal box. The clutch rod is bent, so I'm going to cut it off and spin up a new one at work on the lathe.

Sure is, but only at that end? No idea when that was done.

I'm guessing it's a brass bush and a big c clip that keeps it central and locked in. It had a brake line clip holding it and no bush. Lols.

More pics

I think I may have them in the wrong way. Oops, my bad. With the column removed,there is no play at the coupler when turning by hand.

Big brass bush is 1.325"OD The clutch rod is anywhere from 0.580" at its widest and 0.550". Its worn slightly bent and fucked.

Pedal assembly out. Looks like a couple of back yard Barry mods happened at some point.

Thanks mate, I'll pull it apart and get measuring.

Now that my motor is out, I've been looking at my steering. Everything in the front end is new except the steering box and steering column. I did put the new spacers, seals and retaining clip in for the coupler but I am still getting exactly 1 3/4 freeplay movement at the steering wheel. It...

I think the ones on the left are the inner shells,your original inner shells need to be pressed out first.then the ones one the right press or slide into them and then the pins go in. There should be an instruction sheet in the packaging or if in doubt, call the guys at pst.

Hi Mate, I recently completed my front end so its pretty fresh in my head, but correct me if i miss something. Just make sure the LCA nut is loose first otherwise you will destroy the rubber bush. Also removing the front shocks will give you a little more sag than you would expect.. Put...

LCA with new moog Bushes.

Hi Guys, I went with the Moog option, and used the weld the washer in method for the old outer shell removal. Worked a treat...

Good feedback guys, thanks I appreciate it.

Cool , Thanks Guys. I will use the Moog original style parts.

Hi Guys, I have an Energy Suspension Front and rear suspension Bush kit and a set of new LCA pins. I pressed out my old pins today and all was going well. I lubed my new bushes up and pressed them in, still going to plan. Then I went to press the pin in, however they just slid in by hand...

This is great info. I went the other way and am replacing my LCA bushes and pins. I have opted for the energy suspension bushes reusing the outer shell and using the greasable LCA pins from Firm feel. Will let you all know if they are good or not. :)

Hmmm this bolt came out easily for me. Just loosened the rear nut, used lots of lube and tapped it forward enough so the cam washer is exposed. Next use a long pry bar to lever the bolt out.

Hi 67, I am also in the process of removing the front end for new bushes and hardware. The key to it is , "The right tool for the right job". (In the case of 46 year old components , Heat and some good quality corrosion inhibitor is your friend and will make your job a lot easier) I'm...

Good point Redfish.

Cool , thanks guys- I wasn't sure where they were made either so its good to ask and get everyone's opinion. ( I'm from Australia so I had no idea who makes what over there.) The P-S-T kit looks good and they advertise on this site. Around the same price but they say it exceeds OEM specs. see...

Hey guys, Has anyone used this company before. The kit looks very affordable. http://stores.a-resto-parts.com/-strse-79/SUSPENSION-STEERING-FRONT-END/Detail.bok I already have an Energy Suspension Full bush kit so i'm just looking for the hardware. inner/outer tie rod ends with sleeves...