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I used Inline Tube for all my new fuel and brake lines on my car. I have no real complaint with the quality of their products, particularly the fuel lines. The brake lines needed some minor modification, but that doesn't appear to be your concern.

I had the very same problem. Broke down and bought a billet thermostat housing with the O-ring and have never had a leak issue since.

I went with a carb plate, and that worked fine for me. I think I picked up one for pretty cheap off of Amazon.

I had the very same experience. Problem is gone now. Glad it worked out for you.

I don't think you will be disappointed.

I just put one of those Billet Specialties housings with O-ring on my intake. I prepped the intake side by stripping all old gasket and sealer off and block sanding it. Then I bolted on the new Billet Specialties housing. It completely cured my leak problem. Did not use any sealer or anything...

I have the Mopar .474 in my mild 318 with 2.02 heads and it performs very well in the butt dyno (never been on the machine). And that is without an optimal rear end gear.

You might be able to confirm the belt part number through Rock Auto also.

Leanna's handiwork on top helps set it off.

My modified "318."

This is what I did. Spray canned my motor and it looks fine. Although a clear on it after might be a nice touch.

I think this problem has resolved itself. Test driving yesterday revealed smoke out the exhaust has all but vanished. Will continue to monitor and update. Thanks.

I believe it had smoke coming out of both exhausts. I replaced the intake gaskets, so I would hope that is a good seal, but it is certainly worth considering. The heads were completely redone before I bought the car, and then I drove it for a little bit before I parked it and tore the car down...

Next time I get a chance to drive it at the end of the week, I will see if I can get a video. Freshened up does not mean a new build. The motor had been rebuilt some time ago, and then it set. I drove the car before I tore it down almost three years ago for this project. I don't recall it...

The motor for my car was freshened up two summers ago and then it sat on the engine stand buttoned up and covered up for the last two years. Had the chance to take the car out for its first drive today as we are going through last minute bugs and a "good amount" (can't really define that) of...

I have a relatively similar set up. Overstock 318 with forged, flat top pistons. 2.02 heads that were shaved to improve flow. Mild cam. 600 cfm carb. Stock exhaust manifolds. Compression is right around 10:1. On a good day it will make 310-320 HP.

When I ordered new stainless intake bolts for my car, they were slightly shorter than the original intake bolts. Not quite some dramatically different as what you have there. I went ahead and installed the new stainless bolts. Strangely, some went in easy and some not so much. The threads...

I used my dremel tool to grind down the lips on the MP valve covers. That made it pretty easy.

Thanks to all of you guys for the comments. I may give the carb plate a try. There will be at least three of us so we should be able to scratch up both inner fenders and the firewall and radiator support.

Thanks for the suggestions. I like the carb plate idea. Will the stress of the engine weight not do damage to the carb mount holes? Also, will it be too difficult to use the carb plate if the transmission is also bolted to the engine? Where would I be able to pick up one of those plates if I...

As I am slowly working back to the reassembly of my car, one of the obvious big steps will be hoisting the engine back into the bay. I am looking for some recommendations or advice on different ways to reinstall the engine from the top. I recognize that going in from the bottom is an option...

While I didn't build my engine this way, this is the combination the previous owner just completed on my 69 Dart before I took it off of his hands. My car has the original 318 bottom end, but it has forged, flat top pistons installed. It also has 2.02 heads off of a 360. The car also has a...

Did you try Rock Auto?

I used black RTV around the ports on the metal gasket before I seated it on the heads. I also filled the corners between the metal gaskets and cork with black RTV. The instructions also suggested using a little sealer around the ports on the intake. I figured excess sealer wouldn't be...

My set only had the metal gaskets for the heads and the cork gaskets for each end.

The Fel Pro gasket set that I just put on my small block had the same thing. I assumed they were correct (the box had them listed that way), so I went ahead and installed them under my intake.

Yeah, the rubber hammer did the trick.

Will the crank pulley come off without loosening the big nut that is in the center of the harmonic balancer? I took out the six small bolts in the center, but the pulleys don't seem to want to budge.

Since it was suggested that I regasket everything, I will have to pull the pulleys and harmonic dampener off of the front, I assume? Will the pulleys not come off without removing the large nut that holds the dampener? Probably replacing all the gaskets isn't the worst thing in the world to do.

So as I am taking my engine apart so that I can clean and polish it and repaint it before going in my car, I figured I would put some new gaskets in as well where there are apparently leaks or where it makes sense (oil pan, transmission pan, etc.). I really don't want to have to tear the whole...