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Anything can be replaced - it's just time, money, parts, and effort. If you are willing and able to acquire the parts, then it can be done, regardless of whether people think it should be done. My project was one of those "never should have even tried" kind of projects. But we did it anyway and...

Are you suggesting cutting the tabs off and rewelding them on? I would only be concerned about getting them relocated in the right place for the geometry to work. But the thought had crossed my mind. Basically looking for anything easier than swapping out the LCAs. Or just continue to run with...

Just completed the disc brake swap and mounted my calipers to the rear so that I don't close off the option for a sway bar.

Hey, if the Turbofreek gets some answers, I am okay with it. At least he didn't respond to a thread from four years ago to try to get an answer. I think I have solved my problems and the thing is coming together nicely now.

I have an odd question. First, a little background - when I built my car, the guy that reconditioned my K-member swapped the original LCAs (with no sway bar tabs) for a set of LCAs that did have mounting tabs. It was not until later that I realized that he used LCAs that are 73 and up because...

What he said. My understanding is I would not need the offset bushings with tubular UCAs. Going to play with the set up over the next couple days and see what happens. Thanks for the feedback.

Appreciate the recommendation. I had set the fronts out and rears in as a starting point based on what I read on FABO and some websites. Then was suggested to tweak on the rears. Never occurred to me to pull the fronts all the way in also, but that makes sense. Then work the adjustment out on...

So I finally bolted everything together on my 69 Dart for the front disc brake conversion. I have installed the PST tubular UCAs. I initially set them at the front mount all the way out and the rear all the way in. That leaves me with a few degrees of positive camber. The toe is good. I took the...

I reinstalled them and reset them in the frame - fronts all the way out and rears all the way in (or at least as far out and in as I could physically force them. In going back and looking at the caster alignment (eyeballing it), there may be a little positive caster there, which I think it...

No worries on having to put in the work. I'm going to go ahead and swap them back and see if maybe I can get adjustments to where they need to be. I had actually started to get things a little better set up, but it had me perplexed. I will go back to work on this problem. I guess in a worse case...

Yeah I ground off some of that tab that was interfering in the frame. See pictures below.

Alright so a little follow up. I pulled out the UCAs and swapped one to the opposite side for a test fit and comparison. The picture below is what the UCA looks like mounted on the opposite side from where I had it. While it is not seated on the spindle it is lined up to connect. That looks like...

The issue you raise is definitely particular to that Pirate Jack kit. I just recently worked through the same conversion with that kit. And it has those locking nuts. You use those with the sleeves for the upper ball joints. I didn’t like the look of that so I just bought new UCAs with the...

Really appreciate the detailed follow up. I went ahead and popped off one side tonight and tried to compare to the other side mounted. The arms might be equal length but the ball joint head looks decidedly different in terms of angle. I will probably just go ahead and switch them and start the...

I appreciate the follow up. Why would PST claim that they are interchangeable if there is a right and a left. It seems to me from measuring that the geometry of these arms is symmetrical (like a normal V shape) despite the optics. Can you tell just from looking at those pictures I am wrong? Not...

Well now I don’t know what the right answer is. I called PST back and one person said these tubular UCAs have a right and a left and another said they are interchangeable. Needless to say, adjusting the fronts all the way out and backs all the way in (see pictures) still had netted me what...

Thanks for the feedback. I have actually brought the front end down some from those pictures just by bouncing and rocking the car back and forth. Those pics were taken as soon as I set it down. I measured the ride height per the manual and it is close to spec. Not as high as those initial pics...

I am working through some different things after getting all the components installed for my disc brake conversion on my 69 Dart. I have factory LCAs and torsion bars (I’m just cruising not corner carving) but new PST tubular UCAs with big ball joints and the new steering arm and ball joints on...

I am close to completing my disc brake swap on my 1969 Dodge Dart GT. I am currently running, and plan to keep, my 15x7 inch wheels (4 1/4" BS I believe) on the car with 215/65R15s. In order to give myself a little more room under the front for comfort and to accommodate some likely increase in...

Thanks for all the feedback. The "how to rebuild" thread was particularly enlightening. This will probably be my winter time project. I have a couple questions. First, is there any special trick or tool to use to remove the column? I assume it is just a matter of releasing the pin between the...

Does the Borgeson still connect to the factory power steering pump with the same hoses/connectors?

I have noticed recently that the steering in my 69 Dart has gotten very sloppy lately. I originally had the factory power steering box rebuilt by Steer and Gear (maybe 5000 miles ago). It seems odd for it to be so sloppy (more so than normal). I have already worked on adjusting/tightening the...

I would say the sound could be deceiving. I realized that much of my noise in my car was the gas tank rattling against the exhaust but it sounds almost like it is coming from under my drivers seat.

Just for reference, here is a side profile of my stock height ESPO springs with a 1" lowering block. Note that the rear fender is almost down to the top of wheel with the lowering block. We also turned down the torsion bars in the front to lower the whole profile of the car.

Keep in my that if you are replacing tired and worn out leaf springs with the new springs you may end up with a little bit of an increase in ride height simply because the old springs sag. I ordered the stock height for my 69 Dart but the car rode a little high for me, so I installed a lower block.

I welded the US Car Tools kit in my Dart. You can certainly home build your own, but you won't find many much better than what US Car Tool sells.

I used the US Car Tool torque boxes on my 69 Dart GT. They fit well and hold up under the strain. I liked them enough that I ordered a set for my 72 Challenger as well.

I wouldn't rule out Steer n' Gear for your steering box. Check them out before you commit. They rebuilt my PS box off of my Dart and I have no complaints.

I would have to add my vote for Steer and Gear. They rebuilt my power steering box and did an excellent job.

I would second the vote for Steer and Gear. They rebuilt my steering box on my 69 Dart and the price wasn't bad either.