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That's exactly what I used when I did mine. It was a set I already had from Harbor Freight.

I just thought of a detail about the QA1's that I don't think I've seen mentioned by anyone else. The factory rods have a .625 dia. turn that fits into the LCA . The QA1's are threaded 9/16-18 all the way from the end to the LCA shoulder. I was disappointed in that, considering how much money...

I'm happy so far but I made several fairly major changes all at once so it's hard to tell what's what. I had 14" Rallyes, .87 torsion bars , worn stock suspension, wore-out shocks, and a Hellwig front sway before. Now 17" wheels, 1.03 PST t-bars, Delrin lowers with the QA1's, boxed LCA's...

When I rebuilt my 73 front end over the winter, I was unable to find new rubber strut rod bushings. I didn't realize, at the time, that I could have used the earlier rods as bushings were available for them. I ended up going with QA1 adjustable strut rods and Delrin lowers which, obviously...

I don't think you have broken anything. You will have play in the bolt since you were able to partially remove the nut. You just have to remove the rotor or drum to get a wrench or socket on the bolt heads to be able to completely remove the nuts.

FYI, mymopar.com has free factory service manuals that you can download to your computer.

Those nuts for the lower ball joints are on bolts that can only be accessed by removing the rotor or drum, whichever type of brakes you have.

Whatever this is worth, when I still had the original stock 40+ year old suspension and 14" tires on my 73 Duster and added a Hellwig front bar, the reduction in body-roll was very noticeable and the car felt much more stable cornering. I've since done a complete suspension rebuild with several...

They are used Goodyear Assurance with a hard as rock treadwear rating. I bought the pair for $70 to get on the road without blowing a bunch more money right now. Obviously tires are at the used tire shop for a reason. It's not really a big problem for me. I may well be blaming the strut rods and...

More in the feedback from the road surface. It seems like I feel it slightly "rumbling" in my feet. I know the tires are noisy and wasn't sure how much of that would transfer thru everything else. There is not really any vibration to speak of. It definitely has a different feel than before...

I just wanted to add that I've finally been able to drive my car this week for the first time after adding 1.03 torsion bars, Delrin lowers, QA1 strut rods, and 17" 55 series tires during a full front-end rebuild. Drives great but there is a noticeable increase in the level of "road noise" that...

I just wanted to give you guys an update. I've gotten to drive the car for the last week and it drives great! Thanks again for all the suggestions. I ending up using my digital angle gage as described with the front tires each on 2 1/16" thick teflon cooking sheets with grease in between as...

I was looking to get rid of the 70's float and sway for a more modern driving experience. I went with 1.03 PST's and Bilstein shocks all around and, so far, am thrilled with how it drives. My rear springs are still stock but seem well matched from what I can tell. I will say that I also did a...

I guess I kind of misspoke. I didn't take the time to make or buy anything that would give me an easily repeatable way of turning 20 degrees which is why I was using the steering stops. Although it sounds like marks on the garage floor could work very well. I also think I might trust a bubble...

That's more very good info. I wasn't really considering anything but highway speeds as far as wandering was concerned. Now you're making me want to know the caster numbers. Lol Just another excuse to buy more tools, I guess.

Yes, probably like a lot of you guys cars, the tires will probably time out before I could ever drive it enough to wear them out anyway.

Thanks guys, this is all good info to have. It looks like I'll proceed as I have been, knowing I may have to do some tweaking once I can drive the car. When I swapped the somewhat worn factory suspension from the donor car years ago, I set the back cams all the way in and the fronts all the...

Not try to question you in any way. I'm just curious why knowing the number is so important. I don't see how I'd be able to achieve any more caster with the components I currently have even if I knew I was low. Although I guess it's possible to end up with more than I think I have. What...

That makes sense. I was assuming that the lock would be the same both directions.

That's what I'm trying to determine. Will my method of comparing the camber change at full lock each direction tell me if I have equal caster on each side.

I'm going to have to pull the trigger and purchase one of those or something similar.

Yes, I haven't done the toe yet as I didn't want to waste time setting it until I'm reasonably confident that what I've done so far is accurate enough.

That's a good idea for laying out the degrees. What I don't understand is what is magic about 20 degrees? If I am turning the tires the same amount both directions by using the steering stops, aren't I basically doing the same thing? Again, I don't really care what my caster numbers are as it...

I don't have a way to know how many degrees I'm turning the wheels. That's why I'm just going full lock and comparing the two directions. From what I've read on here, if I understand correctly, I can't get too much caster with factory arms so I'm just doing this in an attempt to make both sides...

Is that to make sure the wheel can't rotate on the spindle? I'm not actually attaching my angle gage to the wheels. I turn to full lock and measure both wheels both directions.

I'm not actually getting a caster measurement. I'm just measuring the tilt of the wheel in or out at full lock both directions. I just adjusted until the tilt was the same angle both ways.

I've been searching and reading tips on here for home alignments for several weeks if not months. I know it would be faster to have a pro do it if I could even find the right one but I like doing whatever I can myself. I installed the Moog problem-solvers as directed for max positive caster...

Wow, your blow up was much more successful than when I tried to do that. It's obvious as can be now. When I originally put my car back together with the original suspension from the donor car, I measured to the torsion bar socket rather than the blade so I thought I was at factory height and...

Thanks for explaining this. I'll keep the tire width in mind when the time comes for new as I currently have no plans to make any other major suspension changes. It's already surprising to me how much more contact patch the 215/55's have versus 205/70's for only 10mm more section width. 225's...

I've only got 215/55r17's on the front right now so I assume that would not be a problem. In a few years, when I need new tires, I was planning to go either 235/45 or 245/45 on the front and 255's on the rear as that's the widest recommended on an 8" rim. Even 225/50's on the front would also...