limegreen70
Pokorny Enterprise's
Does anyone have these rods with a stock K member and stock lower control arms? Just curious on the quality on them and if they are a improvement over stock.
QA1 Adjustable Strut Rods
- Thread starter limegreen70
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Definite improvement, go for it. I put a set on a friends 72 Duster 340 4 speed street car and I have a set on my bracket Demon.
I have a set on my Challenger, ran them with the stock K and both stock and tubular LCA’s in the 70k+ street miles I put on that car. They’re the only components in that car’s suspension that went the full 70k miles other than the spindles, and they’re the only ones that will go back on the car without a rebuild when the car goes back together. A definite improvement over the stock strut rods and their big sloppy bushings.
limegreen70
Pokorny Enterprise's
I am not looking to make some high end performing car by any means, but the thought of reusing those dinky, possibly bent strut rods just doesn't sit right with me. Just wanted to see what the other options are like and the quality of them.
I was advised in another thread that I shouldn't run LCA poly bushings with aftermarket strut rods ?? Any comments on that ?? (70Dart /6 k frame, 360 Magnum)
Huh?
Exactly the opposite. If you run poly LCA bushings you really should use adjustable strut rods so you can tune the length of the strut rod so there’s no binding in the LCA.
The factory tolerances were loose, they got away with it by using large, soft rubber bushings. If you start taking slop out of the system by installing poly bushings, you need ways to adjust the suspension to compensate for those loose factory tolerances.
Thanks
I intend to do fixed road course some (safety cones) at the county safety complex where law enforcement train with their vehicles.
So far:
1.03 PST torsion bars
Gas Adjust shocks, 4 corners
Moog offset UCA bushings
Thanks, while we're at it, is welding stiffening plates on the LCA's worth it ??
I intend to do fixed road course some (safety cones) at the county safety complex where law enforcement train with their vehicles.
So far:
1.03 PST torsion bars
Gas Adjust shocks, 4 corners
Moog offset UCA bushings
Yes, welding stiffening plates on the LCA's is worth it. Boxing the control arm improves its torsional resistance, and keeps the halves of the LCA from separating. When I run stock arms I box them and add an additional strap to the end to keep the halves together at the torsion bar socket/adjusting lever. You can see the issues in @Jim Lusk 's video here
And the additional strap I add to the end here
I didn't add the strap, but they where cheap enough for me to say... why not? I made the mistake of clamping the the arm a little too tight so that T-bar socket was binding, but caught it before I got too far with my welding.
Suspension ****
Great info !!!
I just wanted to add that I've finally been able to drive my car this week for the first time after adding 1.03 torsion bars, Delrin lowers, QA1 strut rods, and 17" 55 series tires during a full front-end rebuild. Drives great but there is a noticeable increase in the level of "road noise" that appears to be transferred back to the torsion bar crossmember. I assume that is due to losing suspension rubber both in the lca bushings and the strut rods. I would still use the same parts again but the noise increase is very obvious. I will say that I do think that my used front tires are noisier than most so that could be part of it.
By "road noise" are you talking how loud the car is on the road, or vibration and feedback from the road surface? Your comment about the tires being noisier makes it hard to tell...
More in the feedback from the road surface. It seems like I feel it slightly "rumbling" in my feet. I know the tires are noisy and wasn't sure how much of that would transfer thru everything else. There is not really any vibration to speak of. It definitely has a different feel than before but I made several changes at once so it's hard to pinpoint.
Well with all of your new components you will definitely get more feedback from the road surface, that's actually kinda the point of most of those modifications, improved road feel.
But tires make a big difference too, especially if they've got a chunky pattern and are new. What tires are you running?
They are used Goodyear Assurance with a hard as rock treadwear rating. I bought the pair for $70 to get on the road without blowing a bunch more money right now. Obviously tires are at the used tire shop for a reason. It's not really a big problem for me. I may well be blaming the strut rods and Delrin for tire noise.
Looks good, I used them on one car. I'm getting ready to do another car and plan on using them as well, I'm looking for a disc brake set up too. What are those you're using on Kristy?
Thanks
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