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Thats how my car is. The solid black hose is vacuum supply. And the black/red stripe and black/white stripe go to the valve. Currently my valve will open but it won't shut by itself. There isn't any vacuum supply to it.

I would also love to have a schematic for the HVAC vacuum lines. Mine is a 1970 dart. But im sure they're the same.

I tried the champion shround/fan assembly, a flex a lite high output, and finally an HHR fan. I have a magnum based 408 with a high flow pump, 180 'stat, champion 22" radiator, etc. All brand new. My car would idle all day in 100 degree temps at ~185 max. But it would slowly overheat with city...

@AJ/FormS Thats a bunch of info. Ill give it a shot this weekend if I have time. Im currently working out of state and yard work, kids, wife, pool cleaning, etc take up most of my weekends at home. I didnt know the vacuum can was adjustable. @67 gt How much did your custom radiator cost? I...

@AJ/FormS I have 3.73 gears with a 27" tall tire. I also have a manual valve body and I've tried to keep the RPM's low to keep heat out of the engine. Ive tried to keep the RPM high to keep the converter efficient and cool. I didn't expect any difference but it didn't hurt to try. I tried to...

I'm going to assume the pump is fine. I had an OEM pump on it and since replaced it with a high volume. There is water movement through the radiator looking in. Im not sure if its enough and I don't know how else to tell. The timing is at 16° and 33°. I have a limiter plate in a factory...

I will give this a try. I have ran the 16" Spal fan with out a shroud. The HHR fan does have a shroud and works better than the Spal setup did. The car will overheat at 25-40 MPH speeds around town as well as highway speeds.

I do have a good sized external trans cooler. The trans fluid doesn't go through the radiator. I pulled the trans cooler away from the radiator and tucked it into the lower valance to eliminate that as a possible issue. I'm using the Magnum serpentine belt setup. The water pump pulley is...

I have the factory hood seals. Nothing additional. I dont know how a mechanical fan would help my situation. But I'm open to try one. I just don't know what clutch/fan assembly to use that will thread onto the magnum water pump. Thats about the only thing I could try different.

I have a 360 magnum based 408 in my 1970 dart. I've been fighting it this summer trying to make it run cool. Its a .030 over with about 750 miles on the build. I have edelbrock heads running with a 234/238 @.050 hughes cam. Its calculated at 11.5:1 compression. I had a demon 750 carb on it and...

I have an aluminum heater core. That sum' beech gets HOT. Many (all?) cars are sold new with aluminum heater cores, they heat just fine and usually better than our old cars ever did.

Buy a new switch. They pop up on eBay often for a reasonable cost.

Jack the front of the car way up when bleeding the cooling system! I always had to do that on my old BMW’s to bleed them, they have some goofy useless plastic bleed screw.

Make sure the cap isn't smashed into the hood! We had a maverick with a rowdy 351 that had an aluminum radiator swapped in at some point in it's life. The cap was smashed into the hood and didn't allow the cap to vent. It kept blowing off radiator hoses without overheating. Took me awhile to...

I usually bend them back a couple inches to make sure they're out of the way. Just don't over bend them or they can kink. It's easy, and you would have to get violent with them to kink them. Take caution not to crossthread the tube nuts when your reinstalling it. The "connectors" are usually...

Remove the "tube nut" completely. Then you can remove the "connector". Give it a good cleaning and thread it into the new radiator. I use some Teflon tape where it threads into the radiator, it's NPT if I remember correctly and SHOULD seal without anything on it though.

Loosen/remove the big one first! Take the line off THEN the fitting.

The check valves get clogged/dirty or leak internally. They're only a couple bucks. Replace them, it's worked on several trucks that I wrench on.

There is a check valve on the passenger side of the intake manifold. When you accelerate, the truck loses vacuum and the A/C needs vacuum to keep the doors open. It's usually half black and half white. Very common issue. Me my dad and my grandpa all have the same era of trucks with the same issue.

That ground wire is pretty long. And on my 1970 dart it was on one of the studs for the wiper motor. I stripped and painted the engine bay last year and put the ground wire back on the wiper stud.

So you have an A/C box, firewall, etc. You need a heater core for a car with A/C even though its been removed.

Did your car have A/C? can you post a pic of your firewall? If your car HAD a factory A/C it'll still have the A/C box under the dash and the firewall is different than a non A/C car.

I have a 22 inch Champion with a single champion fan shroud assembly. It cools my magnum just fine.

Not a direct bolt in. The firewalls are different. The dash controls, wiring, bezel, etc. It's all different. Might be better to leave your A/C box in and keep your wiring and controls all factory. Just plug the A/C fittings off at the firewall.

Those 5 button switches can be bought new. I got one through the local parts store a couple years ago. I'm not sure why people spend the time and money to patch one up. EBay usually has a few NOS switches also.

I used a champion with my slant 6 '70 dart. Worked great on my daily driver. I sold it and bought a new champion when I did my V8 swap. My friend has a champion oh his 383 '70 chevelle. If I was to do it again I would try the cold case radiator just for the OE look.

Get a cable lube tool. They are cheap and readily available at ATV/dirt bike shops. I bought one to use on my 4 wheeler but I've used it several times on cars and my kids bikes also!

That's insane. Unless it's a rare or completely mint original numbers matching car. It just doesn't make sense to me to re-do an original. If a guy wanted an OE looking engine bay you could buy a budget friendly aluminum radiater for better cooling and just paint it black.

A friends dad had a radiator for his 1951 chieftain recored a few months back. It was EXPENSIVE! I believe it was well over $500 due to metal prices/supplies being high. That was the cheapest place he could find locally.