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Yes 73+ LBP 1966 DART with 4in backspace I went with cragar d window steelies

What tires are you running for a street driven car. Has all the sporty suspension upgrades..a early a with lbp. Looking to run same size front and rear.

I missed the cant weld part sorry. ..that said check facebook market place. You would be surprised what turns up

Prob can have a metal shop make them for you. Fwiw id weld them in. Us car tool are a good weld in option also

Yes needing back seat access. Looking at scat

What seats do you recommend for a driver that will turn aggressively from time to time? 66 dart Sb/auto 1.1 tbars 6leaf hd springs Ffi everything P/s

So get this i was doing a once over on the front end and the new idler arm from moog was bad!! Thankfully i save the old one which was still tight

Thanks all.

Cant anyone send across the alignment specs Theyre running? Ive a 66 dart all ffi upgrades...finall on the road and getting alignment next weekend! Thx in advance

Belts not on..waiting for pulley. Oem brackets so its in the right spot.

I just did this on my 66. Its a slam dunk but minor tweaks needed for the early a.

Def post some pics

I'd buy from espo ... Stock height 340 springs. 6 leaf.

Energy Suspension 5.2105G REAR SPRING AND SHACKLE BUSHINGNG

I used poly bushings when i rebuilt my my springs ..took 10 mins to press put the old ones and hand installed the poly bushings. I got mine on Amazon, just make sure the bolt hole is the right size.

Check the lower ball joint and the stop on the lca. I forget what years but at some point the turning stop was on the balljoint and other it was on the lca. Just grind the nub off the joint and youre good to go.

I have a set locally if you want to see how they fit. Also there is a company that does full length rails for the abody, but its an involved process. I am also going with the frame caps for my 70 which has extensive rust issues.

use floor jack to hold them in place, i also ground down some places to better fit the floor contours. also bevel the edge you are welding so its closer to the floor pan metal thickness, will make it easier to weld. i drilled extra holes for welding surface area were it slips over the rear...

agreed, i have US CAR TOOL on my 66 dart, they fit great, super easy to install. also torque boxes are another good upgrade while you are under there.

for an around town car, it really doesn't matter. the stock stuff is plenty strong.

save it, or one day your going to buy a parts car that does not have a steering wheel and you will regret tossing it....dont ask me how i know.

Flaming river. Or put a qr gear in your box. I assume your talking manual steering

do spelling bee rules apply? if so can you use the word in a sentence?

those are the HD late model 11.75" "cop" rotors. doubt the bearings are the issue.

only other thing i can think of is a bad tire -- belts shifty kind of deal. swap one of there rears up front and see if you have same issue.

is your steering box tight? the bolts to hold it to the k-frame that is. i would start there (including the coupler) and work your way out. check all the joints.

Very cool. I need to do this on my 66. After the floors, rails and fuel system!

i am running new ESPO springs - 6 leaf HD, stock ride height (flat spring). they are cheap enough to buy new, but you can cobble a set together as long as the main spring isn't too hammered.

probably dry rubber. i switched to poly on my 66 dart, haven't driven yet, so in 10 years when i finally get it done and the poly goes bad, i will be complaining about the same issue!

wheel/tire combo and t-bars will probably have the most impact over all that you listed vs. stock. are you doing the work yourself? if yes - poly. because they are cheap and easy to do. if your paying someone - go for the rubber, pay for the labor 1x and get what most people seem to prefer...