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Needs a ground,the original was a strap but usually go missing.I soldered a wire to the sender and attached to the frame.

Not sure if they still do or not,they used to come with the Taylor boot at the plug with a pentastar on them.I wondered this myself.The wire itself seems to be the same.

I ran the MSDs too with the same problem with the connectors breaking.I bought the Mopar Performance wire set and installed the MSD boots off the old wire set.Didnt much care for the Mopar boots.On my small block now,doing the same thing with the big block.

http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/amp-gauges.shtml For the ammeter bypass.Also check below. http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=45827 When your bypassing the ammeter,do what they say here,run it to the starter relay and get rid of the wiring going inside the car(use...

I run the 12v constant from the starter relay,and the switched power from the starter relay to a toggle,then to the box.You can use fusible links at the relay or inline fuses.My 12v constant goes straight to the relay,fusible link at the switched power wire.Sorry,should have made that clear.

Dont worry about,fix it and get rid of the problems,amp guage for one!I went through all this last year on mine,not the problems you have,but another problem child.I justed started over,40 yr wiring i'm sure it was ready to be replaced anyways,and i have peace of mind now. Have your alt. and...

There are other sources for harnesses other then Year one,they are usually higher on there product.You need to go through your electrical system to see if you have another problem,with this episode you have had im sure your going to have other problems now,wires melted together are never...

Ya,you got a mess there!I would definatly buy a harness.Amp guage still hooked up,get rid of it in the process.Wire your Msd independenly from everything else,(power wire to battery,trigger to starter relay then toggle,or both)If you have a problem you dont have to go through everything else to...

Did all this happen just after wiring the Msd or did you do something else as well?What regulator is on it?I would assume it should have the newer style already.Are you running it through the ballast resistor?Original amp guage still in use?

14 yrs hugging the headers,no problems.

Start out at 45 thousands and go from there.Engines tend to take more/less depending on setup,hard to determine without probably running at the strip to see the difference.I run my cars no less than 45 with the MSD.

I run the switched power to the starter relay and to a toggle.You have to kill the motor with the toggle this way.I try and keep it independently wired on its own so its not running through the cars whole electrical system.Works as a anti theft detterent too since the switch has to be on to...

http://www.4secondsflat.com/Ignition.html Send Don an email,he will fix you up with a spec sheet.

Amp guage and check the bulkhead connectors,probably one or the other or both.

Perma-Cool fan through a relay,200 watt amp,Msd digital and Holley HP125 electric fuel pump w/relay through the stock alternator.The amperage on the alternators can vary alot from one to another,i had the parts store check the amperage when i bought it to get the highest one they had.The same...

Just learned i could use I-pod on this radio this winter.Im sure i will use that mostly too.Ill give this antenna a shot!Thanks

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NEW-HIDDEN-AMPLIFIED-ANTENNA-BOAT-RV-AUTO-CUSTOM_W0QQitemZ310135022479QQcmdZViewItemQQptZCar_Audio_Video?hash=item310135022479&_trksid=p4506.c0.m245&_trkparms=65%3A1%7C39%3A1%7C240%3A1318 I have no antenna now,didnt know if it would actually work.Any feedback?

Probably a dumb question,you battery is fully charged puting out the proper voltage?Only thing i see left is that,poor ground,your 12v switched on all the time.Appears your wired correct,unless someone else chimes in you may need to call MSD customer support to see if its the box or dizzy.Dont...

No,from what im getting i think you have it right.:scratch: Like i said ive done over a dozen of these 6ALs but havent messed with the ready to run dist.I didnt think you need a box for those,just wiring them up off 12v source and coil.I think there is a way to check the box.Be back!

Is yours a digital?I didnt think the 6AL had an led?I have the digital,that light on it does funky things,never stays lit.Fault code i think its supposed to blink if theres a problem.Nothing else your small red wire may be running to ignition which shuts off power when the key is in crank...

I have not done this with this ready to run dist.Im looking at my old instructions and appears your correct there.Where is the smaller red wire going?Im showing with your system it should run into a 12v system.Is it a seperate system from the rest of the wiring?

There directions have been off in the past.We run ours independantly,not through any other wiring as far as the old ignition wiring.Hot to the solenoid and another wire from the solenoid to a toggle switch.If your main power is straight to the battery thats ok.Wheres your trigger wire going to?

Its very aggrevating fishy!These people!

Got it Mullinax!I have a few connections like that now as well,i just have such a mess i almost want to start over but thats another option too!Stupid electrical,it was all fine till this spring.Something got bungled when i did the body work but that bulkhead was always a problem from what dad...

Mine is a hack.I did do a repair job on it 3 yrs ago replacing connectors and soldering but its been added on to and cut up and i have major electrical problems now,may be easier to start over.

Thanks GTS,stock appearing not an issue,just exploring some options and my connectors are in bad shape as far as the insulators go,may be best to eliminate.

Does the Painless wiring eliminate the bulkhead connector?

Update! Changed the t/s switch and changed out all the bulbs,still there.:angry7: Down to wiring i guess.:(

??? Posted twice

Spring loaded button on bottom side of h/l switch.Push it in and pull knob out, will have a shaft attached to knob.