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Right Stuff for me. Bought some cork/rubber Fel-Pro gasket sheets in different thicknesses, traced out the gaskets with the thickness I needed and layed them down with some Right Stuff. No leaks. I hate oil leaks and so far this has worked the best for me.

I had a similar issue a few years back with a set of Eddie smb heads. Called the high up the ladder Tech guy and when it was all said and done, I shipped my heads back to Edelbrock and a new set of heads were shipped to me free of charge. I too over the years have learned that screaming and...

My factory oil pan. No windage tray.

Those dowel "locating" pins are there for a reason. Without them, the head gaskets are all over the place. Pull the heads, install the pins and start over.

The gaskets are still good. Still available at Mancini and other Mopar websites.

Running factory stock valve covers with Hughes rockers on my motor. Had to run a thicker gasket underneath to get some extra clearance. But as stated above, they do make valve cover spacers in different thicknesses if you need more clearance. Depends on what covers you choose to use I guess.

I've used the Ultra Black and the Right Stuff. Both work good. One thing is for sure though. Right stuff seals up really good and can be a bear to break loose if you need to come back apart later on. I like both.

My Dart was built in March of 69 and it came Torquoise.

I set mine at .010 and never had an issue.

Definitely do the pan last. That front pan end seal will fight you if the pan's bolted up tight. Even with the pan left loose on the bolts the fat seal can be a real pain trying to keep the sealer that you use on the seal from getting all messed up if you're trying to position the cover in place...

Like Moper said, take a big flat blade screwdriver and put it into the slot of the drive gear and turn it. It will rotate up and out of the cam gear. Just let it set there and this is where I use my telescoping round magnet (Harbor Freight) and just drop it down onto the gear and pull it up and...

The drivers side manifold "dog leg" has to come down on the inside of the torsion bar too. Trying to maneuver that heavy engine around while lowering it into the bay and making sure you have room to fangdangle it into place, will make you crazy before you get everything to line up not to mention...

Obviously there are some differences. Mine is 1 1/8

1 1/8 inch on my 340

Possible crack in the block along the deck? I had a 340 that had 2 barely visible hairline cracks leading from the lower head bolt threads to the cylinder between the first and second bore.

That's about all my pure stock 340 4sp back in the day would pull. No worries. Same with another friend of mine. with his 69 340 4sp Dart. We compared and the best at idle was 13 - 13.5 Cars ran great.

My block had 3 lifter bores that were counterbored at the factory when the block was cast. All the others were not. Not exactly sure why they did it, but I've seen other blocks with this same issue and some with no counterboring at all. The ones on my block were all drilled at different depths...

Like Steven190 said. I too use the Moroso rubber/metal shim on factory metal VC's. Had the covers on and off a few times reusing the gaskets with no issues. Eddie heads. Had a few leaks when I was using the cork composition gaskets. Pay a little extra and be done with it.

My Bad. I was thinking LA block which torque at 25 lbs. Hope he gets it worked out. I've had leak issues with mine a few different times and it get old real fast having to keep pulling the intake off.

12ft lbs on the torgue seems pretty light. Edelbrock calls for 25 ft lbs on their aluminum Performer Intake.

I'm using Hughes hydraulic roller lifters in my engine which I believe are Cranes, but that said, I've always adjusted them to just about 1/2 turn from zero preload as per Daves instructions. They sound fine and no problems so far.

I'm using them and also their rockers. No clack clack clack with mine.

Crackedback is right. The Hughes on my engine are right on the money and the Cranes were right where yours are. You'd think that they would be closer than they are from one supplier to the next but apparently not.

I've had the best luck with the Right Stuff over using silicone. I think the Right Stuff has more of a rubbery texture and seems to be less prone to moving around than silicone. I've used most all of the different types of silicone out there and some worked better than others, but for now I'm...

Like badsport said...how bad do you want it not to seal so that you can do it again. That silicone will NOT be fully cured enough in 24 hours to seal tight against the hot oil splash and pressure buildup under that intake. Yeah, you might get lucky and have it seal, but why rush it. Take the...

Like I said...24 hours on that Ultra black won't cure it. Just saying.

If you're using the printaseal gaskets that have the bead of silicone around the ports then you shouldn't need any sealer there. You can put the gaskacinch or any gasket spray sealer and spray the back of the gasket to hold it in place on the head so it won't move around on you as your placing...

Never used any sealer ever, and never had any leaks. Lucky I guess.

Hughes Engines recently posted a article on their website in their technical articles section on mild Eddy head porting. Pics included.

NO need unless they are full of gas. No need to replace floats that float.