Search results for query: *

It’s fine. Use it as is and don’t look back.

Tap it in and your set.

Yeah, one of the guys in FBBO posted it so I posted over here.

Legend Gear & Transmission LGT-700 5 Speed

I posted your answer.

I use some anti seize.

Takes 5-8 minutes that way, soooo much better.

Agreed x2!^^^^^^

I did, a ball peen hammer and all was good.

If you stick the bleeder end into a cup of brake fluid, you won’t suck air back in. Trick is to get one with a big enough opening to get hands in to open/close the bleeder.

I run that kit, American Powertrain, and had to have a spacer made from them also. Got the “air gap” needed, bled it, drive the snot out of it.

Whenever he gets it’s down to a few months and his astronomically high price comes down, I’ll get one.

And how long did ya wait?

McLeod has one also, look at Summit or Jegs.

Looks like that one "turns" to set the gap. Google how to set it up and I'll bet you find a bunch of videos.

130

I do, but at $5k plus, forget it.

Put the hump in it and move on!

What Jamie is trying to do is get all his investment back on the first few transmissions. That's why he's charging so damn much. It's not what the market will bare, just what he needs to recoup. If he was smart, he would spread that cost over hundreds of transmissions, then he'd sell more...

My 383 big block is using the 10.5 clutch and 130 tooth flywheel.

I thought they started the NSS in 1970? The 69' and down cars don't have one.

That's the right mount.

What trans mount do you have?

Pic? Do you have the cross member 180 out?

I like that set better than the American Powertrain set up. But, I do have the AP set up and no issues.

I've got the American Powertrain set up on mine, love it!!

Go hydraulic clutch, your brain and knuckles will thank you for it!!

Looks like a cap plug. This is what I'd do for a simple fix. Clean the snit out of it and put a good high quality rtv sealant on it and move on. If your gonna get into the trans, then a more permanent fix will be in order, depending on how boogered up the counter shaft hole is.

The factory should have made the end of the counter shaft stepped for a "o" ring and it would never have leaked.

There was nothing there from the factory, check your FSM. Acetone will clean the residues off and a good quality rtv will seal it.