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I wonder when they stopped casting them ? Would 2-7-73 be a late casting ? maybe one of the last ?

Let me try again, the black is the girdle, it’s possible that nothing would change, Relatively speaking

Not sure $ ? A guy from Brazil posted it on Facebook

Losing the top 3-4 inches. I’m not sure but I would think factory K and rear steer might be possible

To something like this

You would go from this

not so sure about that, it would require a custom pan, similar to a BB style pan

Just saw this on FB, wanted to share. Pretty cool

This has a 340/421, got it off Craigslist. Runs 10.0s. Haven’t got out much the last couple of years. May be listing it soon.

I built this for my kid brother. It was a $500 318 car and we put a 340 in it and restored it, got it featured in mopar muscle(I think). It was first built as a stock 340 car, and later with a tunnel ram. - having trouble with pics

In the early 1980s I had a 67 charger that I put a 340 in, chrome SST’s with 70’s front and 50’s in back, eventually sold it. Then I had a black 72 340 cuda with gold velour interior, with Keystones, that I wrecked street racing a BMW on a curvy wet road. After that I had a 72 340 challenger...

In the late 90s I bought a 65 Valiant with a 340. ...I paid $2000 for it in Brooklyn NY. It had super stock springs, frame connectors, 4.30s, sportsman pros, hooker Fenderwell, low gear 904, and basically a stock 340. I would drive it 1.5 hrs to the track. It ran 12.20s when I bought it and I...

Was it running and being used like that ? Was there water in the oil ? If not and it’s not a high dollar build leave it alone. Maybe it was “pinned” or welded and the epoxy was just for extra insurance.

Hate to ask, but not putting it in backwards right ? Also found this https://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php/topics/133354/sb-mopar-rear-main-oil-leak.html

Put some red rtv around the coolant passages on both sides of the gaskets and try again

You need to borrow or buy a pressure tester. Like Rusty said, something is out of wack. Could even be the intake bolts are wrong, shoulder too long, not enough thread. Maybe add a washer and retighten.

If your just going to try a treatment of some kind be careful. When I first started working as a mechanic 35 yrs ago we had a customer with an intermittent oil pressure problem. We used engine flush to try and flush the crap out. Well it worked so good it filled the pan with sludge and the motor...

Best laugh I had all day, thanks !

I realize just a typo but 394.47 cubes, I have one, but I remember them being referred to as 392s, guess it sounds better

This is part of his ad, I remember the magazine article

Kinda off topic but I recently came across an aluminum 318 magnum block forsale. $5k. Supposed to be one of four. I believe it’s just the block for $5k. Has 4 bolt mains

Thought you might find this interesting

Looks like jegs or summit, $65 ARP 140-5402

Only $1250 EACH !!!

Remove balancer, cut timing cover off bolts with a wizzor wheel, hit the bolt a few times, straight into the block with a hammer, try to loosen with vise grips, don’t break it. If it won’t come loose use a oxygen acetylene torch and heat the block right around bolt till it comes loose.

I’ve read that when putting solid rollers on hyd roller cam you run the springs the cam calls for, even with solid rollers on it.

No, another one I had that was used. I remember the guy talking about the build and plans to modify the manifold to fit victor heads.

I’m pretty sure I sold him that manifold Awesome build !!!

mutli sleeving a v8 block? - Page 2 - Speed Talk Check out the last post

340 Block Bored to 4.160????? Help