Search results for query: *

I sure did. Been in TX for about 5 years now

Bought it as a long block, so the intake was already off. It’s never been ran since it was rebuilt, so it still needs broken in. I was just making sure everything was clean before putting it together to run, when I noticed the cam lube was dry

Wow, this forum has really changed from when I used spend more time on it. A bunch of rude punks now. Can y’all feel a pic? It just looks like lube. It wasn’t until I touched it that I could tell it was dry. If you need a picture of a lubed cam, you probably shouldn’t be giving advice

It does kind of resemble really old cosmoline, maybe a little darker. I haven’t tried putting heat to it, but it does seam like it would melt off if I did.

I just bought a rebuilt 340 long block & noticed the cam lobes are covered with a waxy substance. It’s dry & kind of waxy feeling. It has been sitting for a while since the rebuild, so I’m thinking maybe it’s some kind of cam assembly lube that dried out or something. Is this a coating that’s...

So they sent you some old used LA valve covers?

Are you asking about the rockers, or the studs? Magnum studs are 5/16 on the head side, and I think Chevy studs are 3/8 or 7/16, so the holes need drilled and tapped. Depending on what kind of heads they are, this can create weak points.

Like others have said: remove the oil filter. I it has a 90 degree adapter, that needs to come off, too. Jack the engine up about 2 or 3 inches, and it should go in. If not, you'll probably have to take the torsion bar off (not that difficult). When you jack up the engine, be sure to keep an eye...

I have an Air Gap with a 1" spacer and drop-base filter on my '74. It barely clears (I think I had to shorten the stud)

They aren't junk, and are capable of making the power you want. I don't know if you saw my previous post, but my heads that were ported b Hughes were double checked by Brian at IMM, and the numbers were right on. It's a few things in your combo that are contributing. I can't help but wonder if...

I'm interested to see what you figure out. Your torque seems way low, especially in the low-mid range. I think you should try a better carb, good 1" spacer, and some 3" collectors with 18" extensions on them before messing with the cam. Not that the cam is not part of the problem, but I think...

Bent valve or pushrod

Nicely done. You'll definitely be in the tens with a little tweaking to suspension, tire pressure, etc. Mine is making about the same power, but it took me a while to get down to the times you're putting down because my suspension needed some attention, and the headers I was running probably...

1/4 or 1/8? My guess is 7.40 1/8, give or take depending on your suspension setup

Do the math to determine the compression ratio, then either pick a cam that works with that CR, or mill the heads and/or deck to get the CR up, and then pick a cam. If that's not an option for you, a thinner head gasket will raise the CR negligibly, but probably not enough. Just bolting them on...

If you really want to put the magnums on, and are willing to swap the cam, go with a cam with a little more duration and lift with a 110 LSA. Comp Cams HE268H or XE268H are both good 318 cams. If you want more of a lope, go with the Magnum 270H. The HE268H worked well in mine with the 302 heads.

I personally don't think the swap would be worth the effort. You might see a little difference, but not much. If you were going to do a cam, intake, and heads, then maybe, but not with what you've got. I had a 302 headed 318 in my Duster before I built my stroker, and it was a good little...

What are you putting them on? If it's a 273/or318, I would stick with the 302s. Anything bigger, go with the magnums. Try to find the EQ magnums- less prone to cracking than OEM magnums, and can be worked over to flow up some really good numbers.

RPM would have slightly higher HP and pulls to higher RPMs, street dominator and performer are both good street intakes for low-RPM torque, and probably really close to each other for dyno numbers. I like the Performer for a 273/318 street intake.

I made a torque strap. I would post a pic, but I don't have any, and the car is currently 3 hours away. Mine has spool mounts.

Nice! It should make 10s once you get everything all dialed in.

I don't think you can. The girdle sits close enough to the throws that it kind of acts as a scraper. You could probably modify a windage tray to fit.

Ok. The reason I asked about the headers is because after I thought about it for a while, I remembered having a similar noise with my 318 after I put headers on (Doug's). It turned out to be the exhaust (seems like the collector flange) was just close enough to cross member to tap against it...

Had a POS Proform carb on it for one, and if I remember correctly, the timing was also too far off.

Well, learn from my mistake: if it doesn't fire up right away, break it open and re-lube it before you try firing it up again (after you figure out why it didn't start). After that happened, I tore it back down and took it to Brian (IMM Engines) so he could put it some of his touches on it and...

Does it have headers on it?

I just re-read your post, and if there's a banging, it could be a bolt is slightly backed out of the torque converter or flexplate and is hitting some thing. Hard to tell, could be lots of things, but I'm all about checking the easy stuff first before needlessly tearing something apart.

Hard to tell without hearing it. If it's a bent pushrod, and it's bent enough, it could be hitting the sides of the pushrod tunnel, and would make a different sound than the ticking, but should be in unison with the ticking

Could be a bent pushrod and/or stuck valve. You can check them by removing the valve covers and rotating them by hand (you'll have the rotate the engine by hand a little at a time to be able to spin all of the pushrods). It will be obvious if one's bent. If none are bent, then you'll need to...

I had one a couple steps more aggressive than that one. It went flat. Had problems getting the engine started for break-in, so apparently, all the assembly lube got wiped off. I ended up going with a Comp cam after that.