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Peaks at 5800, I shift at about 6100.

Someone else posted that they got a crappy set and called Edelbrock on it. The response they got from Edelbrock was that they concentrate their QC on the Chevy heads because that's what sells. Mopar stuff (especially small block) gets little or no QC inspection, or has lower standards.

I was asking. You're right on, it's a Carter pump. Found an Edlebrock pump that puts out 160 GPH....would that do?

Can a 100gph, 7 PSI pump feed an engine with 513 HP plus 100 shot?

How are you hooking off the line? If you are hooking hard with no spin, you're probably good for now. If you spin: If you don't have subframe connectors, get them (should have even if you don't spin). Drag shocks up front will help. drag shocks or Rancho RS9000 adjustables in the back. Make...

Leaving in second makes a huge difference on 60' time. As said, work on the chassis/suspension. Also, try dropping the timing to 32. When you get consistent, start moving the timing up a degree or 2 at a time until it gets better. If it gets worse, go back. Each build is a little different...

Oh, it's under $800. I think it was $500 or $600 to break in and tune.

Brians dyno is an engine dyno, so you'll need to take it out of the car. I don't remember what it costs, but it's not cheap.

Should be a good one. I have the bigger version, the XE296HL in my Duster and I'm happy with it. I've been running it with an air gap intake...been thinking of trying a single plane out to see what happens.

Looks good, as long as none of the holes are stripped out. And yes, it is an Edelbrock Performer. Is the $150 for the covers and manifold? If so, it's a decent price. If it's just for the manifold, you could probably find better. Depends on if you plan on keeping it blue, or whatever color...

That combo will work well. The valve covers will fit. The extra holes are for PCV valve. Use 2 of them for vent caps and one for a filler cap and block off the other one

I'd rather take it off the crank. The 360 mains are huge. Taking them down to 340 size still leaves plenty of material and cuts down on some rotating mass.

Doesn't somebody make a forged crank with a 360 stroke and 340 mains? I thought Callies or someone did.

This Comp Cams Nostalgia Series cam is almost identical to the Purple shaft. I bought it and didn't use it, if you're interested. Here's the specs: Cam Style Hydraulic flat tappet Basic Operating RPM Range 2,500-6,400 Intake Duration at 050 inch Lift 239 Exhaust Duration at 050 inch Lift...

Depends on if you need to do anything to the bottom end. As long as the bores, pistons, rings, bearings, etc are good, you could bolt on some good used heads, 302's or magnum heads have smaller combustion chambers, so that will give you a little more compression without changing pistons or zero...

I think the experience would be good, if nothing else. When I get new heads, I plan on experimenting with the heads that are on it, which are 302's.

No, just a SWAG.

My piston is .062 in the hole. I figured with 61cc magnum heads and a .028" head gasket, I'll have about 8.7:1. Oh, the PO had bored it .030 over. I ordered a cam before measuring the piston depth. I got too much cam, unless I mill the heads or get the block decked.

KB 167 pistons at zero deck and .020 milled off the heads with thin head gaskets should get it to a good CR and still be streetable. If anymore than .020 is milled off the heads, the intake side of the heads will need milled too for the intake to fit properly.