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I don't like ridge reamers. It is easy to go too far. If you do use one, go light and finish hone. You don't have to get all the wear or ridge completely out. These are the type of hone I would use. Crisco as lubricant...

It is the 340 spring. In the Direct Connection days they lowered the price. Not sure today.

You also replaced the timing chain? Are you sure it was installed correctly? Your new carb is no good, the old one was better. Please post pictures of your engine, distributor, and carb.

I'd get the gas "leak" fixed, if there is one. Change the oil and filter with Valvoline racing 20w50 and run it for a while. Then recheck. You might only need valve seals with that low mileage.

On a V8, it is about .002 larger when cold. That is with small block cast iron heads and factory rockers. Will it make a difference, who knows. On a six, probably less change in gap. If I'm going to run a solid cam, and I always do, why set the gap just close enough? I'm not running "Stock...

You have to set them cold before start up. You do that manually rotating the crank and making sure you have enough clearance. Do not average anything. the gap within .001 of an inch should apply to each and every gap between the rocker tip and valve stem. Usually cold settings are .002...

It really depends on your cam and what the manufacturer recommends. That video is for a Chevy, no relevance here. When I rebuilt Ford or Chevy engines, I only ajusted hydraulic cams 1/4 turn in. What cam and engine are we talking about. If you are talking about a 60's slant six and a factory...

So the problem started after the head and timing chain was replaced. Sounds like a combination of carb (and choke) and ignition. Do you have electronic ignition? Does your distributor have vacuum advance? Have you tried to rebuild the carb? Check choke to see that it is closed when cold and...

Try and sort things out logically. When did the problem first start? What changed just before the problem? Pictures of the engine and carb? Nice looking car.

Rpm will not break a slant rocker. I had a 170 with 340 valve springs that would easily rev to 6,000 rpm. Never had any problem.

Never offended by respectful conversation. A lot of oil choice comes down to personal preference and experience. Not sure what tests you are referring to, I have trust issues. Good to get the scoop on ZDDP, I might not have had it perfect, but in practice, I was on target. In reality I don't...

When I was young, a long time ago, I bought a 64 Dodge that had a Poly 318. It used oil. I tried all kinds of oil at the time, all the big names, and then I tried Valvoline racing 20w50. That engine started burning less oil and eventually only burned less than a quart between changes, at...

It is not in the service manual. I was taught really smart mechanic. I thought it was common knowledge until the Brewhaha. Before everything went to hydraulic lifters, valve lash adjustment was part of a major tune up. The feeler gage will slip in at the lowest point, theoretically the base...

I won't be needing it. https://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/threads/mopar-performance-valve-lash-adjustment-chart-label.543092/

No I have not. I was just giving my real world experience having put over a million miles on MOPAR engines in answer to "Synthetic oils are the only oils to use". Most of my engines have been in service for 30 to 40 years long before synthetics were available. Most have between 250,000 to...

Thanks Bozo. I'm here to try and help people, not pontificate, puff my self up, or argue my opinions. I actually read threads and give my advice or experience. I see no benefit to using Synthetic or light oil and my experience has only backed that up. You may believe what you want if it...

Can't get it through your head, you are still wrong. I can set lash any way I want. I do set lash + .002 cold on iron heads before start up static. It is the fast way that can leave lift on the table. I check stuff closer than you, I double check everything, and don't assume anyone or...

I know you can't figure it out. Telling some one adjusting a 66 slant six to adjust it like a pro stock. The OP figured it out. I've been doing it all my life. No big deal, I was shown how to do it by someone who was really smart. More accurate than taking 4 points and adjusting 12 or 16...

Idiot, name calling proves you are a clown. Going off on synthetic oil after someone with a 1974, oil burning in a 225 asks about oil? You have not an ounce of help for the OP. Go back to playing with you dyno.

I've done real life testing in millions of miles with oils in all kinds of vehicles. I could care less about .02 in a quarter mile. I do care how long my motor runs good and how much wear is on the internals. I run conventional oil in everything from a 1966 273 to a 2001 Jeep Cherokee. From...

Whole different ball game. I didn't know you were running Pro Stock. Or Pro Stock teams were running friction adjusters on slant six rockers.

Do that, then adjust it running. You will find out that your lash is off. That base circle is not as constant as people think... If you won't adjust them running, turn the crank by hand and adjust them every 20-30 degrees. That is what I do before start up plus .002 for cold see post #2...

I like to think that brief gap gives a shot of oil that a hydraulic lifter never gets. I have a 273 with a solid cam past 300,000 miles on it still purrs like a kitten.

All depends on how well you want your engine to run. Pretty stinking easy once you know how.

Use a go, no go combination. .010 and a .011 then .020 and a .021. Not really that hard, you just have to get in there and do it.

I don't know any better, I started with a 64 Barracuda running a 273 and a 4 speed. Jim at Racer Brown laughs at me because I run solids in everything from a /6 to a Desoto Hemi.

When adjusting while the engine is running just use a swivel socket on an extension. Assuming friction adjuster with no lock nut.

In the US I always run Valvoline Racing 20w50. You can also run a straight Valvoline 30 racing oil. 20w50 will solve a lot of oil burning. Not sure what all translates to what is available to you. All the above oils have zinc and are non synthetic. My cars get their oil changed every 3,000...

Hard to tell, more likely the guides are not on the same center as the originals. Of course you should do the valve job after new guides are installed.

I hope you are not returning to the same shop.