Adjust valve lash on unknown cam

-
Here's one point no one ever gets when discussing this. The temperatures across the board are much more consistent when the engine is cold. With the engine up to temp and running, you can take an IR gun and shoot two spots on the head 3" apart and get drastically different readings. Shoot the exhaust manifold runners when it's running. None of them are the same. With the engine stone cold, everything is much closer to the same temperature, so you get a more accurate adjustment.
 
Another thing I can add about adjusting the valves with the engine running is that it was much less messy than I expected, definitely helped to reduce idle speed.

I threw on some safety glasses because oil drops were hitting my chest and face.
 
hotrod swinger said:
Another thing I can add about adjusting the valves with the engine running is that it was much less messy than I expected, definitely helped to reduce idle speed.

I threw on some safety glasses because oil drops were hitting my chest and face.
Click to expand...
Well, my engine won't do that. Although it has a standard volume replacement pump (which is higher volume than stock Chrysler) I have the Mopar Performance high pressure spring in it. With a cam that's [email protected] on the duration, it will not idle down much under 700 and I still have 70 PSI idling at that speed. You're right though, most stock engines barely get enough oil to the top to do the job, but somehow they do.
 
Here is the problem with lashing an unknown cam at 0.020-0.021". Few cam companies make slant 6 cams. Isky does. Two of those cams use 0.018" lash.
That is why it is better/safer to lash an unknown cam at 0.010-.0.012".
 
Rat Bastid said:
When Pro Stock sets their valves with the engine running I’ll give it a shot.
Click to expand...

Whole different ball game. I didn't know you were running Pro Stock. Or Pro Stock teams were running friction adjusters on slant six rockers.
 
Last edited:
66fs said:
Whole different ball game. I didn't know you were running Pro Stock. Or Pro Stock teams were running friction adjusters on slant six rockers.
Click to expand...


I don’t run friction adjusters on anything. If you think adjusting a friction adjusters is done more accurately with the engine running you are out of your mind.

I tried in vein to find a single SFT cam being adjusted while the engine is running. Not one.

I‘d love to see it actually done. Accurate it ain’t.
 
I know you can't figure it out. Telling some one adjusting a 66 slant six to adjust it like a pro stock. The OP figured it out. I've been doing it all my life. No big deal, I was shown how to do it by someone who was really smart. More accurate than taking 4 points and adjusting 12 or 16 gaps. I guess you just need more experience. More than one way to skin a cat. Get a clue.
 
Last edited:
66fs said:
I know you can't figure it out. Telling some one adjusting a 66 slant six to adjust it like a pro stock. The OP figured it out. I've been doing it all my life. No big deal, I was shown how to do it by someone who was really smart. More accurate than taking 4 points and adjusting 12 or 16 gaps. I guess you just need more experience. More than one way to skin a cat. Get a clue.
Click to expand...

Then post a video of this super way of setting valves and make us all smarter. Or just STFU with your nonsense.
 
66fs said:
I know you can't figure it out. Telling some one adjusting a 66 slant six to adjust it like a pro stock. The OP figured it out. I've been doing it all my life. No big deal, I was shown how to do it by someone who was really smart. More accurate than taking 4 points and adjusting 12 or 16 gaps. I guess you just need more experience. More than one way to skin a cat. Get a clue.
Click to expand...
I’m gonna give it another shot now that have a feel for it.
 
I still have my dad's old 1972 Chilton Manual, and I even remember that page number for some reason even though I haven't looked at it in years/ page 296. Was a whole long writeup on this very subject, on that page telling just how to do the job RUNNING and UP TO TEMP. While I did the "set em cold and set em .002" bigger than called for" on my recent /6 build while it was still on the stand, figuring "close enough for break in" for the moment to do them that way...
I need to warm it up and drop the break in oil out of it (I don't think I've started that engine once yet in 2023) but at some point I do plan on doing it the "old school way" if only as a "double check" of my preliminary setting. I need to finish a few more important "side projects" that have come up since that engine got dropped in.
I will say the valves are quiet as is.
 
I did some checking because I can be wrong. What I learned is exactly what I expected.

Back in the day of wooden wheels, cams that had no lift and the lift curve was as slow as a thick southern drawl, AND when spring pressures we as low as some IQ’s around here, you COULD adjust the valves with the engine running. You didn’t HAVE to, but you could.

From about the early 1960’s on, the lobes and springs got to the point where you can NOT set the lash running.

So what we have here is another old, smelly technique that is absolutely obsolete unless you love living in history past. I’d you love running old lobes, and you love low performance and if you are too cheap or too poor to at least step up to the 1980’s then by all means, set the lash with your **** running.

If you don’t use old obsolete lobes, and you don’t run springs from a model T then learn to set correct way.

Its not hard.
 
I just don't understand why Chrysler Corp would waste time and effort, Printing the procedure of adjusting the valves hot and running in the service manual.
 
Rat Bastid said:
I did some checking because I can be wrong. What I learned is exactly what I expected.

Back in the day of wooden wheels, cams that had no lift and the lift curve was as slow as a thick southern drawl, AND when spring pressures we as low as some IQ’s around here, you COULD adjust the valves with the engine running. You didn’t HAVE to, but you could.

From about the early 1960’s on, the lobes and springs got to the point where you can NOT set the lash running.

So what we have here is another old, smelly technique that is absolutely obsolete unless you love living in history past. I’d you love running old lobes, and you love low performance and if you are too cheap or too poor to at least step up to the 1980’s then by all means, set the lash with your **** running.

If you don’t use old obsolete lobes, and you don’t run springs from a model T then learn to set correct way.

Its not hard.
Click to expand...

Can't get it through your head, you are still wrong. I can set lash any way I want. I do set lash + .002 cold on iron heads before start up static. It is the fast way that can leave lift on the table. I check stuff closer than you, I double check everything, and don't assume anyone or anything is right especially someone or something who thinks new is always better. I will take the time to double check everything. You don't know me or my junk or how I use it. I can tell you it does not travel on a trailer, ever. By the way, if you were interested, the OP has a beautiful 66 Dart with a slant six. Do you think he has the latest billet roller cammed Pro Stock mill? What an arrogant, nasty, little, pea brain you are.
 
Last edited:
66fs said:
Can't get it through your head, you are still wrong. I can set lash any way I want. I do set lash + .002 cold on iron heads before start up static. It is the fast way that can leave lift on the table. I check stuff closer than you, I double check everything, and don't assume anyone or anything is right especially someone or something who thinks new is always better. I will take the time to double check everything. You don't know me or my junk or how I use it. I can tell you it does not travel on a trailer, ever. By the way, if you were interested, the OP has a beautiful 66 Dart with a slant six. Do you think he has the latest billet roller cammed Pro Stock mill? What an arrogant, nasty, little, pea brain you are.
Click to expand...


Right back at you. Another small thinking, slow learning fool.
 
Rat Bastid said:
LOL my wife would whip my arse for that. I haven’t had a drink since 01/17/1993. I’m not up for that fight with the old lady.
Click to expand...
Then have a glass of sweet tea.
 
Rat Bastid said:
LOL my wife would whip my arse for that. I haven’t had a drink since 01/17/1993. I’m not up for that fight with the old lady.
Click to expand...
Just let it go. All this name callin and rude talk doesn't become you. You're way smarter than that and if someone doesn't want to gleen some knowledge from you, just let them do it their way. If paople want to follow someone not doing some necessarily the best way, turn it loose, man. We all do things different anyway.
 
RustyRatRod said:
Just let it go. All this name callin and rude talk doesn't become you. You're way smarter than that and if someone doesn't want to gleen some knowledge from you, just let them do it their way. If paople want to follow someone not doing some necessarily the best way, turn it loose, man. We all do things different anyway.
Click to expand...

Im too old to deal with busybody, over sensitive fools who argue everything that’s “new” or “expensive” or whatever.

So they can all blow me.
 
Rat Bastid said:
Im too old to deal with busybody, over sensitive fools who argue everything that’s “new” or “expensive” or whatever.

So they can all blow me.
Click to expand...
Good, then consider that over and done with and move on.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top