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me neither, the car in my avatar is a 1966 Canadian valiant and it has a normal drive shaft in it with a slip yoke and I can tell you the U joints don't fit like that!

because its only sticking out on 2 sides of the U joint

those caps sticking out that far won't harm anything with the locks, but that sure will shake really bad!

unless you need to change the bolt pattern why would you bother with new axles? good chances are the car didn't get hot enough to warp anything on the housing

torque converter drainback I bet, usually only happens upon first startup of the day? sometimes after 2-3 hours of sitting?

just put a wanted ad up for torque bolts

small block dust shields have clearances in them for the flexplate and torque bolts, turning it around would create less space

if using replacement bolts thickness maybe an issue; stock bolts shouldn't be ground though

I've ran into this many many times, don't grind the bolts down, don't get thinner headed bolts, there thick for a reason: to carry engine torque to drivetrain most common issue of this is the dust shield is bent, may not appear to be but I guarantee that it is, sometimes I've seen people shim...

sounds like you want to run the engine, with the torque converter installed, but not installed to the transmission, I would say this is a major no no

first off its not tires or rims is it? when raised on stands does it still do it? was gear mesh checked? does there sound like metal on metal?

well apparently I'm not talking out of my a$$, because you said it didn't need to be beefed up (not needing any work) then you go and mention the upgrades it would require...:wack:

actually as posted in this thread in the link, there is very little that has to be done to bolt one in, some surgery to the tunnel supports and fab a cross member A500 really needs to be beefed up http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=178459&highlight=A500+duster

just as hard to work with as steel (coated steel line) but it doesn't rust nearly as quick, and its safe for use as brake line fuel or trans lines the local napa sells it pre made or in the 25' rolls, I buy it by the roll and make my own flares for the ends

you can get a transmission from any small block mopar car or truck from 1966+ but you'll need all the automatic stuff too and a balanced torque converter or a balanced flex plate

most larger moterhomes have the transmission that has a bolt on driveshaft, pretty near useless in a car some of the smaller ones and vans have the normal tail shaft, you'll have to look to see which it is, if its cheap enough the engine would be worth it (under $300)

the time you spend on this thread you could have done it the right way; hope the shop tells you that it requires a new front pump! doing what you done is just plain lazy

easiest way is take it to a good frame shop, they can straighten it in the car

with the car in park, wheels blocked and front elevated get under and loosen the bolt in the slide adjuster, push all the way forward allowing the rod to slide through the adjuster and tighten

pull the brake drums, unbolt the axles slide them out and unbolt the center chunk

don't weld a piece in between the gears like pictured if you want to get the axles out again, the picture is only for ford rear ends and 8 3/4 where the axles are retained from the outside not C clips in the center

he used a balanced flex plate so its not the problem; I think voeltagear hit the head on the nail with the throttle pressure (kickdown) adjustment

3.9 v6 273/318/340/360 and 5.2/5.9 share the same bellhousing, but like mentioned torque converter weights are used on 360

in stock forum 904 is said to be not as strong as 727

there is only one car/truck tailshaft, the other one is for RV and will not fit a car or truck driveshaft

80/90 and if yours is limited slip you need a bottle of friction modifier

ATF +4 did supersede the dex III and in newer mopars you need to use it but in our 904/727 and 500/518's you can still use dex III or ATF +4 the only difference is one has friction modifiers and suppose to be synthetic

nope bigblock has a different bolt pattern

I'm afraid of trannies too:sign11: oh... you mean transmissions...

if your talking about driving 8 years on a rebuilt transmission you won't have a leg to stand on....