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We all neded a helping hand every now and then. No one was born with knowing what or where casting numbers were.

[IF YOU PUT THE OIL PLUG IN,,, ALWAYS,, ALWAYS HAVE A WRENCH IN HAND TO TIGHTEN IT,, IF YOU DON'T , TAKE THE PLUG OUT... NEVER ! ! NEVER LEAVE A LOOSE PLUG IN THE HOLE Thats what my Wife says also, about the loose plug :cry:

You always, always deck the block and heads. Does not matter if it is for a racer or a grocery getter. Always deck them. I have been building motors since the mid sixties and have deck all of them, no matter what. Never go cheap on the motors. Not the place to save money.

I had this problem a few years back. What I did was pull #1 plug got a heliarc welding rod about 2 feet log and dropped it down the spark plug hole. Took off the valve cover over #1 cylinder. Marked #1 tower on dist body and took off the dist cap. Slowly cranked the engine over untill the rod...

Ah sh I did put in the wrong duration @.050. Sorry about that. They say the eyes are the first to go LOL. The rightduration @.050 is 234°/244°. The cam is an Edelbrock performer RPM Part Number 7177. This car is going to be street only. Not a daily driver but I will put high miles on it...

With the stroker build you have outlined for my 340. how would this cam work with it Duration @.050 488°/510° Lift at valves .488/.510 lope sep. 112° centerline 107° hyd. flat lifters let me knowwhat you think

I have used brown Permatex for years. never leaks

We are at .040 over. The heads you talk about sound great. I really like the lift with out the mods. The valve size will be fine. By any chance to you know the compression ration. Thank you very much for the info. I will for sure check them out.

Mad Dart; Now there is a plan. I had not thought of doing that. I have 360 heads, but would like to get a set of 340 TA heads with the 2.02 valves. The 360 pistons are they the same as the 340's. with valve reliefs cut in?

Press fit works well for stock and lower output motors that do not require frequent disassembly for freshening up. Their main advantages are simple assembly, cheaper pistons (no locks or extra machining) and they rarely come loose. In performance applications they require extra clearance to...

The rods I have are pressed in. You are right about the 340 pin diameter. I was always building big blocks. But the 69 Dart I did with my son turned me into a firm beliver that the 340 is one of the best small block to build. Hind sight is 20/20. Most people did give them away. Everyone coulsd...

I dont plan on racing it. I'm not going to make it fast, 12 to 11 second in the 1/4 is all I'm going for. Combression around 9.5 to 10:1 max. This car is stock other then the motor and wheels. Looks like it came from the factory and placed in a barn for 17 years in Washington. The only thing...

Pistons are going to be replaced. Was going to balance the entire rotating assembly, dampener, flex plate and conveter. Sounds like I will be replacing everything. If I do keep the crank, heavy metal will have to be added during the balance. Do they still use lead or is there something else...

All right guys, need your ideas. I have built a lot of engines, but I have always used matching parts. I'm presently restoring my Fathers 66 Barracuda. He has owned this since day one. Step Sister had the engin rebuilt 17 years ago when she had it. Garage took out the 273 and put in a 318. I...

The 68-71 balancer has a offset bolt pattern. Part number is 2951673. Now 72 had 2 different types of balancers. A forged balancer had a symmetrical bolt pattern. Part number 3614369. 72-73 had a cast balancer also symmetrical bolt pattern, part number 3751160. Hope this helps