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RT one thing you might consider, is simply using a smaller, typical 1 1/2-3hp single phase compressor for some of the smaller jobs. It would likely be more efficient overall. I did not realize it was a screw, which I would guess would lighten the starting load considerably.

Many of those types of motors are dual voltage, AKA can be rewired. Check the nameplate

You are out of my league, (I think I said that wrong, LOL) HP wise, on this one. But I agree with the others as to capacity concerns. All phase converters that are motor driven are quite inefficient. There is a LOT of losses. Also, high HP 3 phase motors have very different...

"I ain't there", obviously, but I'd think this is a trigger issue. First thing is, I would ramp the v/ cm setting WAY up towards the higher voltage end. There is a high voltage spike in that wave form and you may be over-driving the input. Then play with sync/ trigger. You may do...

Well, anyway LOL 'S how we learn ---sometimes

Doubt it is that critical. Too bad you don't have a diagram

Might be this https://datasheetspdf.com/pdf-file/594110/MCC/2SC1623-L6/1 That center terminal is the collector Info on the larger chip, HT1621B https://datasheet.lcsc.com/lcsc/2108251130_HTCSEMI-HT1621BRQZ_C2886391.pdf I am unable to read the smaller chip

One problem is, tools change. Sears may change manufacturers. I've got some Sears phillips heads that are fairly recent and they don't fit the screws worth a ****. Now, I've been using Phillips a LONG time. Since I was a kid. My Dad got ahold of me early and explained Phillips...

The first time I saw one of those was in the mid 70's. I went to work at my Dad's parts store, and we sold automotive paint, "Acme." He always had a couple of those in stock, and we sold a few, here and there

Never heard of wax wire A quick search shows something by that name used in jewelry

Do you have ANY IDEA how expensive a tap like that costs???

It would not be 70 per hour. Think about that. Your 55 gal drum will be gone in less than an hour. More like .7/hour If you can, you should consider no1 for an outdoor tank. Is the burner double lines? Suction plus return? That would help some with an OD tank to keep things flowing.

THAT is certainly interesting. ALL these manufacturers, IE Permatex, Locktite, etc, could do a LOT BETTER giving us actually usable details about how their products perform under certain jobs

I don't know why I didn't suggest that. I have a Jet drill mill. It has a taper that accepts collets, and then an adapter shaft for the chuck. Collets are much more true than the chuck. In looking back, even though I don't use it much, MAN am I glad I bought it (used)...

Just the other day I came across an otherwise brand new tube that had a small amount used ONCE. The cap was put on perfectly. I simply do not understand why the cap does not seal, if sealing is the problem. Got the cap off and had to punch and work an awl deep inside before I hit...

EXHAUST FAN makeup air: Regardless of your furnace condition, in the winter you would be pulling OUTSIDE air into the building (and should at least have a door/ damper/ window for that purpose). Larger / better shops would have a DUCT FURNACE, in other words a furnace right in...

The whole deal is, an exhaust fan (WHICH SHOULD have "makeup air" from the outside)---will cause a vacuum in that space. Your burner is combustion air into the combustion chamber through the burner---up through the stack and draft regulator--to the chimney device. You are pulling a...

^^Why can't you fix it?^^ I haven't looked at them, clean it out and RTV? Add patch sheet metal/ flashing to the outside? The biggest problem I've found with most blasters is FEED. The medial is either humid or whatever, chokes up in the feed hose

Has the OP been back ONCE since this thread was posted? He/ she did not even thank or agree with any of the posts

Very good!!

AND I have forgotten. Aren't the wheels different for flux vs solid wire? Check destructions, make sure of the setup and parts use.

ALSO is that machine dual voltage? If so you may be over running the 120V limits, if you are on 120V . AND you might get a meter and attempt to check the 240V voltage under load, AKA while laying a bead. Easier with two people. Maybe your power wire is too small and or too long.

GOD DAMN SITE SOFTWARE DID IT AGAIN. WHY CAN'T IT TAKE AN AMAZON LINK!!!!????????????????????????

You should not be using straight argon. Normally you use an argon/ CO2 mix. I don't do much if any really light sheet metal. I use straight CO2, the same stuff that is used for a cok/ pepsi machine. It is cheap and liquid in the bottle, and lasts a long time. CO2 allegedly gives you...

Good luck. I hope it isn't State ******* Farm

All the tube is for is air. Had the cable been mashed, squashed, or crimped, perhaps in cold weather. Being out of the sunlight and weather, I would not think that stuff would fail like that. Perhaps it had a weak point.

There are a couple of FACTORY manuals that you may be able to dig up. 1...The factory/ dealer parts manual. You can download some of them free, from MyMopar.com. If not you can find some originals here and there, ebay, etc, and you can find reprints. Search 2...The elusive factory...

I'm sure it is gone, Rob. I use only screw socket ones and just had one do that about 2 months ago. First time. When I shut it off and let it cool, it was OK for a bit. Junk it.

Yeh, THAT!!! I ran into one where the spanner holes either weren't drilled or weren't accessable.

So, I use strap wrenches more now that I ever did when young. I screw around with old OMC outboards, and use them to hold the flywheel when removing/ installing the nut Yellow one I've had for some time. It originally came with a stretchy rubber strap that was USELESS. All it did was...