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I would have silver brazed instead of welding, "less heat," but that's fine. I don't like to drill something like that. Instead (this fitting may be too big to do this) I like to start a small hole, and then using awl and tapered punch, work it out larger. Heat it some to...

That looks GREAT. For guys that can't tig if you have oxy-acet you could silver braze it, or if mapp gas or even a GOOD LPG torch, get that Harris "stay silv" silver braze kit which is a small roll of small gauge med temp silver braze / solder. comes with that and acid...

As soon as I read " CONTROL WITH YOUR SMARTPHONE ."......................................... I'm out............

Old ring is what I used. Little tape around the "handle." AND NOW ANOTHER ANNOYING STORY from the old days At NAS Miramar, my part time job at the auto hobby shop. Bear in mind I did not work there every day, nor did I work all day. so when guys had a lengthy project, I might only see...

JUST in time. The 74 Scamp I sent to body shop prison will need one fiddle with and both of them adjusted. I junked out the 69 donor car, I cant believe the nonsense to get those apart and "out"

Boy thanks for this. I wish we could get more guys who "do stuff" to weigh in. Lee Robinson is always selling "removed sheet metal" he seems like a prime candidate I have what amounts to zero bodywork knowledge

Why don't I have permission to view that page?

The full vacuum thing is quite a controversy. Folks have "made it work" either way. The whole system takes on completely different strategy one way or the other

Maybe I missed something basic here........."where did" you get this? I did not see credit to the author, or did I miss that? "For peak engine performance, driveability, idle cooling and efficiency in a street-driven car, you need vacuum advance, connected to full manifold vacuum...

^^This is all really cool, but the earlier Darts are much more difficult the way the cluster is shaped.^^ One thing I've considered, (someone had a thread with one) is an import digi cluster inside the old Dart housing. See if I can find it............... Darn easier 'n I thought...

It was discussed here once. "Back in the days" some of us used to just yank the springs off and time it "total." These were dual point dist, and the points cause enough "drag" to retard the thing for startup. I variously ran (in a 426W, 440, 340) the stock Prestolite dual point...

Were you able to open the links? I got an error

Link does not work. AbodyJoe pasted up a magazine article some time ago that covers this.......Post 28 how much initial timing mild 360 magnum Crackedback came up with a chart that shows some idea of stock distributor slots to degrees advance....... Dimensions for Mopar...

Jus' throwin' this in, but in the gas crunch of the early seventies I transplanted a 71 340 low miles junkyard engine out of an A body into my "what-had-been" a 440-6 RR. It was high compression, and orange. T-quad carb. Great combo by the way, Ma should have done that!!!

That's a great idea but I hate wasting buckets. Cut a hole in a scrap piece of plywood and put OVER the bucket LOL

That's amazing. When I saw the thread title I thought maybe it was another "DONK" thread LOL "Submit article: How to ruin a Classic Mopar in 4 easy steps"

DAMN buddy those look GREAT