Search results for query: *

There are also various "conversion joints" which amount to one size on two journals, and another size on the other two.

Only time I've seen a slip yoke that is keyed/ master spline is when it must be clocked, IE a slip yoke on a shaft

Agree.

I am guessing that an engine that has suffered main bearing block damage, and been line bored might be a candidate for re-alignment??

I don't have the answer, but you can not go by online parts photos. They often swap photos around.

Did they give you a ballpark price range?

If you search around this forum, there's a couple of good threads with photos on the mods.

TransGo makes a MVB kit and I intend to use that if I live long enough. The 727 I ran in mine was already MVB https://transgo.com/product-details/tfod3/

A 347 U joint should be a standardized number that uses that Precision/ Moog numbering system. That is, "non Spicer." If it doesn't meet spec, it is probably a rebranded/ renumbered item that is mis-boxed, or just plain mis boxed Maybe someone had them "out on the counter" and mixed...

Curious, what does the 5 pin NSS do? Must run dash indicator lamps ??

You are not thinking of what are they called? Torquflite Patty? or something?

When I was in the Navy there used to be a 55 Chev, hemi, Clutchflite that ran at the old carlsbad strip. I think one big problem with them is the way they drove the oil pump. I doubt that spider drive affair could tolerate much "actual mileage" The other thing I read is that...

Steel lines just about MUST be double flared, as they will split eventually, if not.

You started off correct in removing and checking the shaft Have you tried reving the engine to simulate cruise speed, both in neutral with clutch engaged (foot off the pedal) and with clutch depressed? Might be engine/ belt/ accessory such as alternator at what road speed does...

I already told you how it works. The center pin of the switch is grounded. That is one wire. It goes from the start relay, one of the flag terminals, down the firewall to the NSS. So start by grounding the relay terminal and see if it cranks using the key. BE CAREFUL as you have bypassed...

The wiring for the neutral start switch is incredibly simple, and you should be able to trace it easily. The CENTER terminal of the switch on the transmission grounds when in neutral or park. That wire, from the center of that connector, goes up the firewall and plugs into one of the two...

****!!! I thought he was supposed to know what he was doing

?? You are going to have to tell us what does and does not work

I KNEW there was a reason I like MVB

......................................The work begins...............................

Also consider a Ford 9. They are cheaper and more popular to find parts for than an 8 3/4, and for darn sure cheaper and lighter than a Dana, and you can swap gears in an afternoon.

Well you CAN'T ignore lockup.

Differences in tire "stated" size, tach/ speedo innacuracy......................

Unfortunately I assume people do that. Check I mean.

I mean it has to come out

Only one way. You already know. Converter seal. Front pump gasket, I don't know what all else.

You don't HAVE to use vacuum switches. You can just use a pair of toggles and manually control it

I was under the impression that McLeod were supposed to be pretty good

You sure they are right ones? Or maybe china knockoffs?

I hope I live long enough to get an A500/518 in my Dart. I have a Transgo shift kit that allegedly can convert the things to manual VB. TFOD-3. John Cope has a video on a VB he markets https://www.coperacingtrans.com/?product_cat=valve-bodies...