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I am somewhat dismayed by some of the comments here. Some folks might read these and conclude that mopar alternators bad, "1 wire" magically good." I owned my first 69 RR in 1970 for a short time, then my 70 in about early 72. By about 75 or 6 I had a clapped out 64 FJ-40 Landcruiser...

The oil pressure tapping goes all the way down through the engine and out the bottom, with another branch gallery meeting it. There's a small cup plug has to be up in there to separate the two. Discussion of that area...

Actually, it doesn't--or didn't. The original Delco integrals back in the day were 3 wire, just like Mopar. And I'll poke in my usual warning: DO NOT stick a huge, great big, not to mention quite large "one wire" on there without properly sizing the charge wire, and that means either...

OK let's go through this again The ignition switch has B for BATTERY and that is the ONLY power going into the switch The ACC (accessory) output feeds out to the buss in the fuse box for acessories and is hot in BOTH "run" and "acc" and is cold in "start." The S START...

I explained it to you if you read my post. The key in the start position, completely changes the circuit.

...........And please,...........PLEASE.........do not call a "poly" engine a "wide block."

You may have somehow developed reverse polarity in the distributor pickup circuit. AKA if you reverse the two pickup wires, this changes the timing relative to where the rotor is pointing to the cap contacts. This has become known as "rotor phasing." You can search that phrase, there are...

The water pump thing tells you nothing, except that the engine is presently equipped with the earlier pump setup. They made 340s like that as well I always start with the numbers on the block under the driver side head parting line, as mentioned above. If that does not resolve the issue...

That is a bit difficult IF THE ENGINE IS IN THE CAR LOLOL

I don't think there was such a thing as "untrue" double rollers before the chinese came along.

As someone said, compression, spark, fuel I would: 1....Run compression test and leakdown test. 2....Waste no more time with fuel. Squirt some fuel in the intake, just like you would if a carb was not getting fuel. Inspect plugs for wet/ foul 3....Devise a way to check cam timing...

The crank and damper are not the problem. You can stick the newer or older timing cover/ pulleys/ etc on the front with no issues. Some years have a symmetrical pattern for the pulley bolt holes, and some do not. It is common to either leave the odd bolt out or oblong the hole in the...

Coolant ports ALL American SB's that I can recall are made this way, Ford, GM, Mopar. They are made this way because the heads are reversible side to side, and therefore must be non "left or right." Actually some racers add fittings to the rear ports and hook hoses in to...

You either need a V8 K or what are called "swap" engine mounts. There are a acouple of manufacturers, I've forgotten where they ended up, as one outfit sold You will need a bell FOR AN A body. Pickup/ van bells won't work.. Wander over to an outfit called Brewer's Performance. The...

1......Install small port small chamber 273 heads. 2......-------------------------------------------------------------

That is amazing. Sad, as well.

Please do not use the term "turned over" if you mean "it runs" DEFINITIONS: "Starter works," "cranks," "turns over." This means that when you twist the key to the "start" position, the engine rotates as would be expected when attempting to start "Fires." This means that when...

Head gaskets will not fit "wrong"

Depends on price and condition. AND WHAT year? Might be a Poly, is it even an LA? What year? You at minimum will need to Either get 6 to 8 "swap" mounts or drum up a V8 K member for your car Likely need different exhaust manifolds Need proper engine brackets (engine to mount...

There IS argument as to a trade off, but You'll never see it in a mild 318. There is argument that fully grooved are weaker in a high performance situation---less bearing surface area. Remember, when it fires, it is stressing the CAP

Know what I think? I think you are full of crap Bye

What is the chance you got the pump mounted "askew" and bound up the intermediate shaft?

I REALLY started a controversy here when I claimed that there is "no such thing" as horsepower, and there isn't. HP is a myth, it is in fact a mathematical product, it s a "thing" that can NOT be measured. Dynos do not measure HP. They measure torque, and to calculate HP you need the...

The reason people are getting antsy is that they have given you some suggestions, and you never got on here and said anything, even so much as "sorry I'm busy" or whatever.

That was a REALLY not smart decision. What I would do at this point is make ABSOLUTELY certain the oil pan has enough oil AND NO COOLANT, and then try to prime it WITH THE FILTER REMOVED. If you don't get oil, and it should take less than two seconds, The drive gear needs to come...

YOU STILL MUST rotate the crank, or index it to line up the oil passages in the cam.

Is it possible the cam was manufactured wrong, or a regrind with the holes plugged with muck??

You lost me!! I know you know a bunch about engines, but how will lower valve height help bind? I'd think it would be the other way around? That is, won't a taller valve allow for more room with an extended spring, when valve seated?

The short answer is you need to degree the cam. It can be done fairly accurately IF YOU ARE CAREFUL by indicating off lifters without the pressure of valve springs "to get a close estimate." You MUST (if you have not) use a piston stop first, to verify timing marks are correct

In my 67 there was no possible way that pickup mounts would fit and allow the headers to fit without interfering with steering