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I don't know why it would not. I guess you realize this is easier with TWO of you!!

Actually this can be done without removing windshield. Use a small air cutoff grinder to cut screws and clips, but anyhow There are two I think 1/4 studs or bolts below dash into each kick panel area. My recollection is you can loosen them to the point of just being started. I...

I air locked a 440 once. ALL you need do (and the stat vent hole is a good idea) is to disconnect the heater BELOW the T stat on the intake. You say you don't have a heater, but you DO have a pipe plug there. Just remove the plug. Another way would be to pull off the top end of the...

THIS is the CORRECT ANSWER, but make certain it is the one below the stat. HEAT the plug with a torch, even if all you have is LPG.

If you are running an automatic, you can run it through the oblong firewall hole for the clutch pushrod. You may have to look around, there are ARE smaller pipe thread adapters FOR SOME GAUGES (the special fitting is not standard) You need to mount it low, meaning BELOW the...

Thanks for posting all of this. So far as the pulley, that is/ was common, clear back in the early 70's my 70 RR 440-6 I bought from a friend, had had "hang on" added AC and it was that way--a big beefy added pulley held by 3 of the dampener bolts. Realize just how strong 5/16...

Sorry this theory about "water going too fast" or "too slow" through the rad is bullshit. If it was going too slow, it was a bad water pump, restriction, or slipping belt. you can't drive it too fast so far as the rad itself, although a rad company (DO NOT ask me which) posted...

NO, it's not. (hard) Just disconnect the heater hose leading to the intake manifold, which is below the stat, and prop it into the air while filling. But I would agree that ALL stats should have a bleed hole As long as the thing is not puking out the overflow, this is perfectly normal

I don't know why not. The "if" would be finding out what the design temp should be, or maybe an industrial one. Cap tube, or tube and bulb temp controls of all kinds used to be very very available in the commercial HVAC/R industry, at least back before electronic sensors became...

OP may be right, I don't find it in the 70 Plymouth manual, nor the 70 Dart/ Challenger manual.

I am as well, but it's easy to check, just take your ohmeter and measure from the shell of the sender to the block. Zero ohms or close. I believe that more senders are ruined by OVER tightening, which can distort the housing and damage/ put pressure on the thermister

ARE YOU USING a matching sender? AKA Autometer, etc

If it is cycling on the low pressure switch, and you can tell with a set of gauges, or by just bypassing the switch, either the system is not loaded (cold day) or the refrigerant is low, or there is a restriction in the system such as a bad TXV, moisture plugging the metering device...

No, not loaded on a hot day. NO

These systems usually DO NOT HAVE a high pressure cutout

And if you thought 134 is expensive, just wait till you need THAT!!

It is been up for awhile. About a year ago places like Oh ' Really?s was way over 10 bucks I was thinking near 20

IF it is aligned and IF the water pump and crank both have the same groove diameters, you should be OK If it does seem "long" you might consider constructing an idler on that long side to pull it in towards the center

Otherwise depending on year go over to MyMopar.com and download a free factory service manual. You may have to settle for Dodge / vs Plymouth or other way around.

"On whut?" A 1924 hemi powered Farmall?

^^ I think some of "me" has rubbed off onto Steve LOL^^

Might be, but I am thinking that those should be "low trouble."

That is a good 'ol STRONG fitting. If it warps it has been severely overtightened or the gasket is crap. I would inspect it with a light, magnifier, and a machined straightedge, and maybe try some fine sandpaper on a glass sheet, or very fine file CAREFULLY Also look for...

Depends on the OD temp AND HUMIDITY. Even though animals (humans) feel worse in muggy, humid weather, the fact is that humid air holds and can hold more heat value, so the radiator/ condenser can DISSIPATE more heat into humid air than dry air, the temp being equal

Control looks factory, how about a photo of what is under the hood? Do you know what a compressor is? Do you understand that it is switched on and off by an electrical clutch which engages the belt drive? Can you tell if the compressor is working (if it is there?)

The problem with vacuum is, that it is only equivalent to roughly 14-15psi test pressure, and even turned off, the system sees way more pressure in static refrigerant pressure.

Yes they DO have 73. I'm one of the guys I mentioned that GOT it there. Go look again. HINT: Sometimes you have to settle for Plymouth vs Dodge and vice versa You are welcome https://www.mymopar.com/downloads/servicemanuals/1973_Dodge_Chassis_Service_Manual.zip...

Yup. Biggest issue on some parts is getting fittings that you can hook them up and seal them. Vacuum does not work all that well to actually find leaks. There are "detectors" that are supposed to find vacuum leaks, but a guy wonders just how effective they are. One effective tool is...

You might suck it up, buttercup. NObody is paying any of us to answer these questions, so excuse us if it takes a few minutes for someone who knows to say something.

You can download the 73 factory service manual free from MyMopar.com. It got there thanks to a few of the guys on here, and yeh, the diagram should be in the back of the manual, in the heating/ AC section