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Most connectors fall into place. Most all only connect to one component. Example of "some confusion." The single wire that attaches to the brake warning lamp switch down on the brake prop valve. But it has a stud push on connector. Not very many of them in the car. The other single...

You need to be more specific. Your post is so general that we have no idea what you are looking at Generally speaking, parts stores are gonna be LITTLE help. NAPA used to/ may still have, useable headlight/ flasher connectors, and the connector for the voltage regulator, as well as...

Also, do NOT hook ANYTHING to the coil EXCEPT the two MSD box wires. No tach, no radio supression cap, nothing.

How does it get to the battery, AKA how large is it? Photos can be "skewed" but I see nothing there except for the one you mentioned, that looks very heavy

"Through the ammeter" is not how they are wired, but they put so much load on the charging system that they damage the charge wire, bulkhead connector, and ammeter--just like on A bodies and just like we are talking here (likely). I've said before, my old 70 RR ate the bulkhead...

I think you meant that "THE CHARGING SYSTEM" is dead. NOTE THAT the initial statement is misleading. Either the charging system is dead or the battery is way down OR defective and will not "come up. But it does not mean (as explained) that "the alternator" per se is the culprit I...

Don't discount silly and easy stuff like a loose belt. Measure voltage while running/ charging BOTH at the battery (ground to block) and at the alternator output stud. If there is more than 1 volt difference you have harness problems.

Most (all?) parts store alternator checkers cannot test for full load output amperage, and MANY of these testers are either incapable, or the people operating them. On a side note I build--from scratch and spare parts--an alternator tester back in early 80's at a parts store where I...

I think the meter is not accurate. Maybe the range switch is iffy. It should be more accurate on the lower V scale It might be possible the ground (larger) cable from the battery to the block is actually bad. They can corrode internally and you won't see it. Also possible that paint, etc...

Well I finished my egg, this morning. I see that I forgot to mention "the easy way" to bypass the problem. Crackedback sells a little kit So what you do is this: 1...DISCONNECT battery ground!!! 2...Disconnect the bulkhead connector plug containing the large black/ large red...

Most of them did not have large alternators, either, and some of the big ones had the factory bypass, known as the Police/ Fleet / Taxi wiring. My 70 440-6 RR managed to "eat" the bulkhead terminals way way back about 1973 or so. Of course Al Gore had not invented the internet, yet...

They may not be there. Some of the acessory stuff like the defrost (as an example) are either on other diagrams, or not there. Sometimes going a year ahead or back in the manual will tell you. Sometimes, going to a B body diagram will provide answers. If you have not you need to...

Here is one of my favorite simplified diagrams This comes from the MAD article I linked earlier http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/amp-gauges.shtml Now, you do NOT have to do the conversion as they did, and many advocate not, but I use this as a reference as to the how and...

If the output of the alternator goes through the bulkhead and ammeter circuit, you still have the problem. When the car is running, EVERYTHING is pretty much powered by the alternator, not the battery. You must determine what mods have been made, what wiring upgrades have been made, etc...

The issues I mentioned are the NUMBER ONE list you MUST address. You HAVE to figure out if the wiring is large enough or not, PERIOD. There is no possible way to get enough current through a bulkhead connector without melting terminals, etc. There is NO possible way to get that much...

You are posting some confusing info At some point you said something like "the wiring is stock" and then said "it has been replaced." Then you showed the AMMETER and mentioned the VOLTMETER. Has the ammeter been converted to a voltmeter? Have you eliminated the bulkhead connector...

We are talking about the cluster, not the dash. The dash is the entire frame across the car, the cluster is the part that contains the instrumentation. IT is only grounded "by luck" by a few sheet metal screws against 50/60 year old rusted steel dash.

HEAD lights. I would consider re-doing the grounding. And replace the headlight connectors. Clean the HL terminals if you have not. Ground each headlight independently. Many years of these cars, the lamps ground is y'd into one wire, so if it comes loose, they all suffer

More on the dash lights. They are a bit of a trick. There are two sources of power for the headlight switch One, UNfused, comes off the ammeter circuit and powers ONLY the headlights. Switch has a built in breaker Tail, park, and dash light power comes from the tail light circuit fuse...

The only thing the ground on the light switch does is associated with twisting the knob to turn on the dome lamp The poor ground is AT THE CLUSTER. The cluster is poorly grounded by the mounting screws. There are actually several problems with clusters other than failed components...

I think that will work fine.

The path for the OEM wire was from tank, up through trunk floor and into rear harness, up to left front kick panel where that connector mated the rear harness and inst. panel harness. From there the wire went up to the cluster PC board connector and to one stud of the gauge. Through the...

This can be "worse." First we need details, !!!DETAILS!!! on the system. 1...Just what is a "Tuff 150A alternator?" Who makes it and what does it use for a regulator 2...How EXACTLY is it wired? How large is the feed to the battery? How is the alternator grounded, and what is the...

The second strategy would be to obtain a battery close to 12-14v whatever you think will work, for which you can get a designed for purpose vehicle powered charger. Then, easy. Connect the new backup battery ONLY to the new device, and connect the vehicle electrical system to the...

This could be a problem. The project, I mean. You really need a dedicated charger for the backup, and fully isolate the car system and the backup battery. This is because almost NO batteries, other than lead acid, are natively happy running off a car 14V system, which it really is...

I can't tell what color. One almost looks like it could have been temp sender, but the eyelet is obviously not factory. "Ohm" them out AKA continuity. Looks like you have the harness separated from the bulkhead, right? Find what pins on the bulkhead end, give you a ping on the...

Simple Wire it up and try it. Go to the MSD site and look up the destructions You need access to a battery, a coil and a way to rig a spark test gap. If you want to test the inductive pickup you'l need some sort of such as a Mopar breakerless distributor to try Hook the large black to...

I do not understand what you are saying here. I mean, if you remove the bulb, of course it is shut off. EG: My 70 RR the sockets had 3 wires, so there was a dedicated ground to the socket shell. I don't know if your Barracuda would or not. But I think we have strayed. I would...

All I have to say is, that fuse box looks like junk

As bad as they are I find this hard to believe. The voltage is set by a zener diode in the VR. Most of the time they either work or they dont. Could be a poor ground, AKA the mounting bolts, or even corrosion/ looseness in the connector. Perhaps you pulled and re-installed the...