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T bars are numbered, odd/ even. Odd no. goes on driver's side. Does not matter which end is which.

!!!THIS!!!

That split bushing MUST have a little bit of clearance. It was designed to prevent stress from the assembly compressing the two alternator ears and "busting" then. The brackets tighten up on the front one, and slight irregularities in the whole assembly stack are taken up by the...

Some of it was out there, but no internet, so unless you were in a huge "car area" with lots of "guys" who knew stuff, or accidently ran across "that" magazine article, you would never know it/ them was out there.

Isn't the 440-3 in the casting "means" it's a dash 3 engine, AKA truck/ motorhome? BUT that is not a heavy truck water pump setup. They bolt to ports in the ends of the heads, which are completely different from a car/ light truck

An FYI all 67/ later A bodies are in essentially the same place

Probably same issue as flat tapped cams and lifters. Not the correct "stuff" in the oil

There is a spacer that goes between the two ears on the party you are not showing us. What you have exposed is the bottom. The tensioner bolts to the ear that is up with I think a 5/16 bolt (could be wrong been awhile)

Also remember that length of a tube/ hose is also important for restriction. Just how much power to you anticipate? If you think you are on that edge, you can actually run "let's say" a 3/8 tube/ hose system, but still use the 5/16 sender with little restriction for that short...

There are two ways to go, but some cheaper, lighter duty switches may eventually fail The "low current" way is to pull off the yellow flag / spade "push on" connector at the starter relay, then connect the remote switch to that terminal, and to the large stud on the relay. It will not...

Yes. Only two stock strokes in B/RB. Old 361/383/400 all same stroke. There was an oddball RB 383, AKA same stroke as RB All factory RB same stroke, 413, 426, 440

I would check rotor phase Does it have MSD box? I don't remember old hemis (hell, you know THIS you can look it up in the service manuals) but the 3G hemis use WAY WAY less timing (20-ish or less I'm told) than wedges

You may not have liked it but Steve knows WTF he is talking about.

Just a guess but you would have to install the timing cover with gasket and torqued, then rig an indicator to the cam down through the valley and gently pry it fore and aft? If you knew this was coming, you could have left the rear cam soft plug out of the block until checking

No one has answered the question. The key to a factory stock console shifter is the lower mount for the pivot shaft, which MUST HAVE THE BOSSES on the bottom of the transmission. These are not present on all 727's Bracket with the arrow at lower right Two holes at bottom of casting:

Motorhomes? Industrial? Last I knew, a 26 hemi crank would drop right in a 440

Can you tell us what you ordered? AKA link? That should answer the question, as the website should spec just what all it fits EDIT never mind, found the part number also on rock auto "16054" rock says it fits thus, and since this is later than the pushrod magnums, I guess it would...

So, I don't know. Are they actually different from the Dakota/ RAM magnum style starters? Where do the .7 engines fit into the picture, AKA the 3.7 / 4.7 engines?

Some guys have recommended to me that even on a street swap I use a motor plate. On a B/RB this is relatively simple because you can just shave off the rear of the pump housing by the thickness of the plate, and still use the existing pulley setup. This frees up a fair amount of area...

With the marks at 12 and 6 you are not on no1 compression, but no6 To fire on no1 you must turn the crank 1 turn so the marks are both 12 o'clock Cams have not been ground at "split overlap" for decades. The correct answer is to degree the cam

CC'in heads and pistons is not all that difficult, especially in this day and age of help and videos on the internet, and easy availability of materials IE off egag, etc. It's just not that hard. You are not blueprinting it, you only need to do one to establish CR

THERE!!! Much, much better!!

BYE!!!

I would guess that "on average" solid cams can go flat more often than hydraulic.

Me too but sometimes they are tight/ rusted etc.

I have not screwed with Holleys in years. The ones I fiddled with had a small screw not obvious, in the rear throttle body

Some of the Holleys you do not need to drill the throttles. Instead there's a stop screw for the rear barrels you can crack the rear butterflies (secondaries) with the stop screw instead of drilled blades

Try this. Forget the timing light temporarily. You must adjust back and forth between timing, idle speed screws, and idle mixture Try timing it with a vacuum gauge or tach for max RPM/ max vacuum. Warm of course. Adjust idle mixture screws for max RPM/ vacuum and keep backing down...

If I ever get to do a B/RB A body, it will likely use a front motor plate

My friend, I wish you'd "write that book." Even an outline LOL. How are you feeling?