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Had the same problem. Ended up chucking them up in a lathe and turning them down till they fit.

Thats correct!

I am thinking you got one or more of the offset bushings backwards.

The lower steering box fasteners can be shimmed to raise the pitman arm angle.

67 K-frame has a different idler arm mount (one tab). But can be modified to work.

Please measure your driveshaft and list the measurement for those who need it?

74 Dart Swinger or Dart Sport?

Rani, don't trust any driveshaft chart, anywhere! Even the factory parts books are incorrect! I tried at one time to make a 100% accurate chart but was unable to get enough real world data. I am still working on it.

Last one I sent was around $30 one way.

UPS it to Moser Engineering. See their site for build sheet and prices!

The size of the wheel does not change the stance. Also stance is personal taste. I prefer to fill the wheel well. On your car without modifying the front of the rear wheel well I think your limited to 26" tall tire

I am glad I asked, there is two different AMD full floors listed!

Where is the difference between the two A-body wheel bases? Looking at listings for front frame rails, rear frame rails, trunk pan and full floor, they don't list 2 different sizes. Is the difference in the floor section between the floor pan and trunk pan?

http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/Leaf-Spring-Plates_p_1988.html

https://www.lefthanderchassis.com/v2a/viewproduct_group.asp?idgroup=2513260

Did you use a new flywheel? You say you fried the clutch, you may have hot spotted the face or even warped it.

I think your one flat off. You should have some resistance getting the ball joints in place even with the adjuster all the way out.

Also , make sure one of the leaf spring thru bolts hasn't broken and allowed the rear to shift.

Street car? I set mine at 0 camber, 1/8" toe in and as much positive caster you can get, but equal both sides. I shoot for 2 1/2 degrees positive but that may involve tubular upper arms.

Proper U-bolt torque also plays a roll in obtaining a smooth ride.

They look like they were "built" maybe for towing?? Any leaf without the plastic "sliders" was added. In the pictures at least one was added.

I think you should align it for radials because you are not going to be happy with bias ply tires. Bias ply tires are for 100 point restored trailer queens.

Also, the arc of the tie rods during jounce must equal the arc of the tie rods during extension.

Correct, the centerlink has to be parallel with the ground, so, that means the tie rods need to be parallel with the ground at ride height.

I am interested in this also. Is there a safe way to "bend" the pitman arm and the idler arm? In theory, to have the least amount of bumpsteer, the horizontal angle of the center link has to be the same as the tie rods, at ride height. That means that the angle where the inner tie rod meets the...

I used one on my car and this part helped out quit a bit when designing it. https://www.lefthanderchassis.com/v2a/viewproduct_group.asp?idgroup=2513461

With sand bags on the front seat. -0.5 Camber 0.2 - 0.5 Toe in +3.5 Caster

"Dr Diffs kit is far better quality" X2

I am trying to design and market a bolt in rollbar. The joint in the link is the strongest one I can find and I am waiting for info from NHRA about certification when using that part, so the bar can be broken down for ease of installation/removal...

What kind of tie rod end spacer do you use to correct the tie rod angle when raising the ride height?