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If your old one works i would put it back in. You can also get it rebuilt. Also there is an electronic device that you can install to compensate for the wrong windings on your new sending unit. MeterMatch Fuel Gauge Interface Module

They read full and empty correctly (sometimes with a little bending of the float wire) but anything in between is in accurate. The tank isn't the same volume at the top as it is at the bottom, and the original sending unit is wound to correct. The new ones are wound for a tank with the same...

Dash help please This may help. Good luck.

Main Page - rte Solid state replacement for your ivr in the gas gauge. The factory unit is supposed to cycle to provide an average of 5 volts. When mine failed it stuck closed and pegged the temp and fuel needle. You can simulate 5v with 3 aa batteries taped together in series and see how...

Or upgrade the ignition to eliminate them.

The coil on the right heats up and breaks contact, cool down and makes contact etc to reduce the voltage fro 12 to what your gauges use. If it sticks it applies too much voltage to your gauges and pegs them. Sorry for the double post

Dash help please What I did

RTE limiter - rte These people sell a solid state replacement and have great installation instructions. Did mine 2 years ago, works great. Btw this is a great time to replace your dash lights with leds also.

So inside your fuel gauge is a resistor coil on the right. It heats up and breaks contact and cool etc to provide a reduced voltage to your gauges. If the contact stick closed it sends to much voltage and overheats your gauges. the fact u shut it off probably saved your gauges.

Wow never thought of that!

I ran into a similar situation when I replaced my mechanical regulator with a new electronic one. Problem stopped when I found a mechanical one to switch back. MSD takes a remarkably small bleed through to run.

Thanks for posting the solution, so many don't. This information helps everyone.

Kind like that? Found them on Ebay, had to trim a bit of the heat sink to fit.

RTE limiter - rte

Thanks for posting this.

Don't stop there!!! More info please.

Sounds electrical. What kind of ignition are you running? Box bad? Could be some corrosion on the bulk head connector too. Hate intermittent problems. Good luck!

Great news! Its the little things. Have you thought about replacing the bulbs with LED while its out?

I taped together a few AA batteries to test while the cluster was out. You can apply to the circuits and the gauges.

It takes almost no corrosion on the battery cables to cut power, I'd try cleaning and reinstall first.

Any chance you can swap out the regulator with a known good one? Its the job of the regulator to regulate the voltage from the alt and thats not happening.

that looks like a U shaped threaded clip. How about slitting the clip and take off 2 halves?

I would try grinding 2 flat sides on the part that protrudes and hit with some vice grips. Good luck.

Very cool, Thanks Bill.

Yep, the contacts are open when voltage is applied. I know there is a solid state regulator available but its too bulky to fit in the housing. I'll have to think of how to do a clean install RTE limiter - rte Thanks for the suggestion, I'll look into them.

So while I was in there why not an LED upgrade?

I made a power supply using 3 AA batteries and discovered that the coil had lost continuity. A little corrosion removal and the coil is working fine now. Note the gap on the contacts.

Discovered the coil on the right is the one supposed to heat up and break the circuit.

Opened the fuel gauge

Disassembled the gauges