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X2 on Spectra tanks, I've bought a few new for A bodies and they're great quality.

They may be cheaper in the US, just hope shipping doesn't kill it for you. But regardless of price, Spectra isn't built in China or Mexico, and they're a good tank.

Spectra Gas Tanks are made in Quebec, and are one of the top tanks made for our cars. http://www.spectrapremium.com/products/fuel_tank.html

I did, I basically just replaced the gas tank with a Jerry can, still letting the fuel pump do it's job. A carb rebuild is on the way for sure.

Tried that, no fuel squirted into the bore while turning the throttle after the engine was shut off. As for why I put gas in the bowl (I shouldn't say I filled it, I just poured a small cup of gas into the bowl), I bought the car unknown to how long ago it was last driven. Considering I've...

Hey guys, engine is a '64 383, 2 bbl, stock carb (I believe Holley? Didn't look too close but maybe should have). I filled the float bowl with gas, then ran a rubber line to a jerry can to figure out any idling issues the car may have had. It fired up right away and ran great and idled fine on...

Are you using the new locking ring? If so, use your old one, or bend the tabs on the ring to a more extreme angle than they're at. They are too shallow so the lock ring doesn't put enough pressure on the gasket. I had the same problem.

Thanks Bill, I've done a lot of searching, but there are almost so many threads on it, its hard to find the right one. Any idea what the resistance for a full tank should be?

Figured it out, the edges of the old locking ring are bent up, creating a pressure on the gasket when you tap it into place. The new locking ring is flat, so it doesn't really seal anything. I used the old locking ring with the new gasket, and no more leak. Gas gauge still doesn't work...

I'll be crawling under there this morning before the car show to try to fix it.

Should I make sure the sealing surface is dry? Thanks for the input.

Hey, my tank is new, and the sending unit is new, and it's leaking at the sending unit. I used the neoprene gasket and lock ring provided. I read in another thread that the original lock rings are thicker than the new ones, and to use them. I still have the old locking ring, so I'll try changing...

Dave, I've got a Holley 750 DP, I took it apart and cleaned it up, however the gasket kit I put in it wasn't Holley brand, so the rear bowl leaks. If you want it you can have it for $100, it's the newer style with the plastic pieces. I'm in BC so shipping would be cheap. You just need to take...

Sounds good to me. I thought that was good gas mileage, but was wondering if I could get it any better. I'll leave it alone though. Good idea, thanks.

It's a G20. I'll leave them hooked up, but I will check that vaccuum canister. It gets roughly 20 MPG, maybe a little better, which isn't all that bad, but I would really like to get the best possible while travelling across the country.

Where would the secondary air valve roughly be located?

Is there any advantage to disconnecting my secondaries? I'm looking for better fuel mileage. My question is actually for a 1975 Chev 350 4bbl, in my camper van. Carmen and I will be taking the van across Canada/US in May/June and I'd like to get the best fuel economy I can. I'll be...

Good to know, thanks!

The parts store had a Holley 670 Street Avenger on sale, which is what the guru's there thought was my best choice for the price I have to work with.

That's what I needed to hear, thank you.

I've got a built 340, 10.5:1, Edelbrock RPM High rise intake, X heads, 1 - 20-232-4 Comp Cams Camshaft (not sure on specs..), 727, 3.23 rear, which is just going to be used on the street. I'm not planning on racing it anytime soon. I need a carb recommendation. I've got a Holley 750 double...

I got a Holley 750 double pumper for free from a guy who was just trying to get out of wrenching. It's the newer style with plastic pieces on it. I opened the floats and both were clean, floats moved easily. My cousin has been on me to rebuild the carb, but an engine builder I know said to just...

The auto store cut me a deal and gave me the $325 tank for $215.

The thing is, I don't want some garbage from my tank going in my $10K 340.

I'll look into it, but shipping will most likely kill the deal being in Canada.

Damnit, pulled the tank and drained it.. Surface rust on the top side, I wire wheeled it and holes go right through. New tank price through my auto store is $275 with my discount. Looks like a new tank is what it'll be.

I'm not cheating out on a tank, the tank is good, I just didn't drain the gas soon enough and now I want to get use out of it.

I'd like a new tank, but after my $12,000 body/paint and $9800 340, and lack of a job, funds are tight. I'll try what you said Okla, thanks.

As in boil a pot of water and somehow transfer the steam? ..

The gas tank in my Dart has old gas in it, at least 2 years old. I'm going to drop the tank and drain it, to install a new sending unit. Question - is there anything I can put in the tank to clean it? Or do I just put new gas in and hope my filters don't get clogged?