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Did the Leadmine kit with a couple of ends from Doctor Diff. Went fast and I think it was worth the investment.

We use them in a product we manufacture. FWIW, here's a video demonstrating an easy DIY way to install them without a special tool... How To: Nut Insert

I've not actually tried it but heard of inserting a nail the size of the bleeder hole into the bleeder to help prevent it from collapsing and twisting off when trying to remove them - unless, of course, you've already broken it off.

Added that HF box to the shop last year. Have one drawer full of hammers and all the sliders are smooth. Been pleased with it so far - other than occasionally fumbling to release a drawer latch.

Does this count? Noticed it sitting out in the weather a few months ago asked about it. Got it free. Just needed some cleanup.

Had a large floor jack that started bleeding out. Most these days are imports so you'll not likely find a kit. Anyway, I took the cylinder apart (uber big socket and 3/4" impact) and removed the piston o-ring. A hydraulic shop had one with just the right ID, OD, and thickness - at least close...

You could also invest that money into an assortment of Durablocks of different lengths (and shapes, as mentioned). Hand sanding is not too bad if you choose the right grit paper at the right stage of finishing. Using a paper that is too fine early on will create more work and simply 'polish'...

This simple scrap angle iron and caster dolly served me well during resto work. The front doesn't weigh anything once stripped down. Also served as a lift point for installing the engine/tranny from below.

...Don't forget to close the valve on the bottle when you're not using it. :)

For general sheetmetal and resto work, a 110 unit with gas will work fine and, relatively speaking, is more portable than a 220 unit (gotta be near 220 power). If you plan on heavy fab, then 220 would be the ticket.

Here's my latest: In order to get to the ignition switch you have to remove the upper section of the column. Some people get super lucky wiggling it off. Others are more barbaric and use screwdrivers to pry it off. I have a new upper bearing in there so there was no wiggling and prying it off...

Back to the dent puller: The stud welder has worked fine for me. I was less impressed with the puller tool. For some reason it has a harder time gripping the smaller diameter studs vs. the heavier ones.

There are low VOC primers available. For the budget conscious you might look into the Summit/Eastwood line of paints which are repackaged Kirker products. Can also be found on smartshopper.com. Matrix isn't priced too bad either. But I guarantee if you start buying PPG or any other big name...