Search results for query: *

Just for reference, got a couple of carbs from these guys once. They looked and worked just fine - around $100-200 less than brand new: Carburetors – Buy Wholesale Direct - Get Free Shipping and a Lifetime Warranty!

...and make sure the float has no fuel inside of it. It's happened to me.

A little off topic and I can’t speak for Jack but I used a common inline linkage setup and fabbed some small brackets to get the correct geometry in order to use a Mopar throttle cable and Bouchillon kickdown setup. It’s changed a little since this pic was taken but the idea is same. Cable...

Nice! And like the pics, thanks. You have me sold.

Sticky or crusty float/sender?

Oh, good timing. Considering the same setup so I’ll be watching to see how it works out for you.

Yup, have had the same problem. You already know the solution.

I've used kits from KBS to "restore" motorcycle tanks which, as 67Dart273 mentioned, consist of a degreaser, an acid to remove/treat rust, and a coating to seal it all up. Takes time and patience. If it's in your budget, buy a new tank. The filler tube can probably be cleaned up...

The Edelbrock Performer manual instructs to regulate the feed to 5.5 psi with no more than 6 psi. Holley's can handle upwards of 7 psi. Like Cal_gecko said, even some of the stock replacements put out 7. I was looking at the specs for various Airtex mechanical pumps the other day on RockAuto and...

Outstanding project and setup!

Nothing wrong with running a mechanical pump. It'll reliably deliver more fuel than you'll need on a street driven car.

At the risk of getting flamed I'm going to say, it depends. It's generally accepted that you would want to use the timed port for your vacuum advance just as the factory did - and that would apply to you too. But, with the right vacuum advance pod and setup, manifold vacuum will work correctly...

And I'll add this from a knowledgeable service tech at Auto Meter (with regards to aftermarket senders): ...(Auto Meter) gauges are calibrated to match a factory sender, which is very non-linear. 10 ohms = Full, 25 ohms = 1/2, 50 ohms = Empty, and 73 ohms = below Empty. With this said, most...

FYI, 5" is excessively low with that cam but I'm lucky to get 10-11" at idle (440). Don't expect big numbers because of the overlap.

I have a large hole in my hood :) People mount them on the hood, on the cowl, or inside the car using a gauge isolator (you don't want a mechanical fuel pressure gauge inside the car for safety). If the gauge is on the regulator, some people mount the regulator on the inner fender. Have you...

Do you have a way to temporarily isolate that gauge from where it's mounted - as a test? Engine harmonics (vibration) could be at play - especially if it's not liquid filled. Just went through this with my blower motor. Before I installed my hood I had an Autometer fuel pressure gauge mounted...

I cut the line and installed it in two pieces with a flared union.

I've always been partial to Holley's but hey, the AFB (now Performer) was good enough to power the Hemi and dual quad 409's so... I've got a pair of Edel 750's I'm going to try on the blown 440 I'm putting together.

Start with the simple stuff and verify that your float levels are correct (per the guides I posted) and your fuel pressure is at 5.5 psi (and does not exceed 6 psi). You may then have to experiment with step-up springs, rods, jets to eliminate the surge in the no-load condition. Maybe the...

Attached is an old AFB tuning guide from back in the day and the newer one from Edelbrock. Perhaps you'll find some useful info in them.

The vacuum readings you get while the engine is actually under load will differ. You have nothing to lose by trying and can confirm whether the port is working at all.

If you have the stock tank and sender then you must match the gauge to it. You need a gauge for the approximate 9-73 ohm sender. GM uses a different range and some aftermarket, yet another. http://www.stewartwarner.com/tech/faqSc.html Here are some compatible examples from their catalog...

A regulator would go between the pump and carb. Don't waste your time with the cheap parts store (Spectre) "dial" type regs. They're way off. The Holley style will get you where you need to be. I would still consider a regulator even if you think it seems to be okay. Don't know what...

At those pressures you will most likely overpower the needle/seat in the carb and cause flooding. Unless you're racing even 7 is more than enough. You may want to look into installing a regulator.

You could make a ground strap with a piece of wire and a couple of small screw-type hose clamps. The body of the sender needs some kind of good ground for the gauge to work. Lube the tube up with petroleum jelly (which won't hurt rubber) and twist it back and forth to work it in. You...

I have a Carter mechanical strip pump that was putting out a little too much pressure. I went with a Quick Fuel unit from Summit at a good price: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/QFT-30-803/ I can tell you not to waste your time with the retail parts store inline regulators that have the...

Technically the stainless will outlast the regular. But when you consider the original lasted 30+ years... Stainless is great but a little more difficult to work with and flare.

No, just regular steel.

Been there. The frame connectors create a definite barrier to installing the one piece line. I cut mine, installed the pieces, and rejoined with a flared union.

For a stock 318 and no plans to race you can stick with the stock size or upgrade if you wish. You'd have to increase the size of your pickup in the tank to take advantage of the increased fuel line size. The other line to the cannister is for emissions. Keep it or do away with it. With a...