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Do you have the correct clutch fork installed? Iirc theres 2 different length clutch forks for the a833

I have about 1” of free play before the clutch starts to disengage, its just hard to tell when your driving because its different when your sitting with the engine off. I tried it the other night and was able to roll the car back and forth while depressing the clutch, i have about 1” of pedal...

I removed the over center spring, didnt seem like there was much tension on it in the up or down position, i could remove it with a small pry bar with a little finesse. With the pedal depressed it didnt seem like the spring opened up much but i guess since its a over center spring i guess it...

whats the easiest way to check the clutch adjustment on a a-833 with a scattershield? Mine is at the top of the pedal but i believe it is too high, just want to make sure the clutch is fully engaging. Drives fine no slipping but not sure the easiest way to go about it since i cant get a feeler...

Thank you all for the info! Its not hard to depress at all. I may get around to removing it this summer or fall. Im not bang shifting it anyway, Is there a issue with diaphragm clutches in higher rpm if the clutch is already engaged?

So if i havent had a issue in the last 6 years, is there any urgency in removing it asap? Just worried about removing it and changing something, maybe pedal feel

But i thought the only benefit from removing the spring was to prevent the pedal from sticking when depressed at higher rpm

Thank you, it makes sense now, i was thinking of that but having a hard time to actually explain it as that, will removing that spring make any noticable changes? Also is the issue of the pedal sticking only with higher rpm? Or is the spring what will cause the pedal to stick? I have never had...

Ok gotcha thanks for the clarification, if i remove the spring what will i notice a difference in? Pedal should still engage and release in the same position correct? Also ive heard the spring assists in both directions but this doesnt feel like it pulls down much.

i just came across this in another thread, i had no idea you had to ditch the over center spring when using a diaphragm clutch. My question is, is the clutch pedal return spring and the over center spring the same thing? My spring that goes around the end of the clutch pedal is still in and i...

Ahhhh thats what the hole is for lol

That hole is there, look at the last pic, if you zoom in you can see the hole is already there, may just be like a bump stop in case the loop were to ever come in contact with the floor

Unfortunately it was abbout 5 years ago. I looked and couldnt find it

Lol invest in torque straps, trust me i know

Recently? Ive had my zoom clutch in my car for about 5-6 years, never had any issues

Heres the one i got, some machinist was making them and was selling them on ebay, it is adjustable and bolts to the cross member

Is the rumor true about the engine plate putting pressure on the rear main causing a slow leaks?

How about zoom?

X2 on the lakewood As long as you get a sfi certified one youll be good. Gotta save them feets

Also probably wouldnt hurt to double check the shifter throw, i have a old broken drill bit (cant remember what size) but it fits perfect in the hole.

Hmmmm that sucks hopefully you get it. Did they never make any manual right hand drive cars from the factory? Hey just put a left hand drive pedal assy in and let the pass shift lol

Zoom diaphragm clutch in my a833 behind my 340. No issues. Plenty of 4k clutch dumps lol Whatever clutch you decide on if you havent already please invest in a scatter shield. Your feet will thank you

Thats why i stick with a manual clutch lol

Think of all these new vettes, stangs, camaros and challengers, wonder if the flywheels are sfi from the factory or are certified. A clutch/flywheel could explode under any circumstances

I wouldn't run a stick car without one.

Get a sfi flywheel, worth the piece of mind. I put a sfi flywheel, crank pulley and blowproof bellhousing on my 340. Done a bunch of 4k dumps, never worry about it

Clutch should be up top but lower than the inch of free play in the pedal

Thanks for the pics. I should of been more clear lol, i meant a pic of the stop bolt to limit the throw. Did the oem style use it?

Wouldn't happen to have a pic of that adjusting screw on the shifter housing would ya?

Any original hurst shifter is going to be looser than the newer ones. Im running a original hurst shifter and box in my demon, theres some slop here and there but no issues going into gear, i do notice every year or so i have to adjust the shift rods on the box slightly